 0 American Restaurants in big cities
 1 Los Angeles
 2 Philadelphia
 3 San Francisco
 4 All San Francisco Restaurants
 5 Frisco's VESUVIO Jazz saloon
 6 San Francisco street names origin
 7 History of Frisco's Bay Area Rapid Transit system
 8 Seattle
 9 Toronto (Can)

\0 American Restaurants in big cities

THE WARM WIND COMES OFF THE PACIFIC AT' a fair clip in Monterey, and the whitecapped water and royal-blue sky must vie for attention once you've seen the color of the greens at Pebble Beach. I had an outdoor table for lunch at Club XIX, just off the eighteenth hole, and I was enjoying the second half of a bottle of white wine made just up the coast and tasting my first morsel of lunch: fresh Pacific tuna, seared rare and set on a fondue of green onions and ginger with sweet summer corn. There was a woman at the next table in lemon-yellow linen shorts and sunglasses, drinking something very red. Life, I thought, has not yielded a finer afternoon than this.

But then I began to recall other memorable meals I'd recently had: ten delicious courses, including a saddle of anise-tinged venison wrapped in apple-smoked bacon, at the French. Laundry in the Napa Valley, where you can smell the grapes growing; briny skate wing at Chanticleer on Nantucket, savored as a storm beat against the clapboards; the rattlesnake quesadilla (which didn't taste like chicken) at the Broadmoor in Colorado Springs; twenty-ounce sirloins and wine-frivolous fun with friends at Pappas Bros. in Houston; spiced blue crabs, cracked open with a wooden mallet, giddily eaten and washed down well with cold beer at Obrycki's in Baltimore.

As I'm often reminded, I have one hell of a job, eating in the best restaurants in Paris and Bangkok and Rio. But I am convinced that no country in the world has the variety and quality of restaurants that America's cities have. You won't find finer chefs in the whole world than Guenter Seeger of Seeger's in Atlanta, better Italian food than at Spiaggia in Chicago, fresher fish than at Le Bernardin in New York, or more delicious soups than at El Mirador in San Antonio. As a result, I never get jaded or bored or worn down by eating out across the nation. Every day is different, every state boasts its own food culture, and every city argues-often pugnaciously-that it is the best.

Which is why Esquire has taken it upon itself to rank them and compile a top-ten list of America's best restaurant cities. To break into the pantheon, a city must have a goodly number of deluxe restaurants that rank with the finest in the world, more than one chef who is regarded among his peers as an innovator and an inspiration, strength in every price category, authentic ethnic food, and an indigenous cuisine that makes eating out in, say, New Orleans a much different experience than eating out in Boston or San Francisco.

Now, you don't have to be an experienced restaurant critic to guess that these criteria would make New York-with its advantage of wealth, population, and diversity-number one. In fact, not only is New York the best restaurant city in America (and quite arguably the best in the world), it has been for nearly a decade. And that is why it was judged ineligible for this particular ranking. Think of the Big Apple as a Jeopardy! champ, retired after a week's worth of victories so others can get to play.

That said, let the game begin. In reverse order, the inimitable, indisputable, but very digestible list of America's best restaurant cities.

HONORABLE MENTION: Atlanta and Washington, D.C. You can dine high on the hog at Seeger's and the Ritz-Carlton Dining Room in Atlanta. There's good Italian food at Veni Vidi Vici, delightful French at Brasserie Le Coze, and fine new southern cooking at the Horseradish Grill and Bacchanalia. And nothing beats the soul food at Thelma's Kitchen. But Atlanta has too many chain restaurants, nowhere to eat downtown, and no indigenous food culture of the kind you find in New Orleans-which it needs to rank higher. As for Washington, D.C., what can you say about a city whose food mavens insist their best restaurant, the Inn at Little Washington, is seventy miles across the Virginia border? Not much anymore. As America's capital city, Washington has little to show at the highest levels of deluxe dining, with the exception of the stunning new Lespinasse. There's still delicious Italian food to be found at Goldoni and Galileo and fine modern American at Kinkead's and Vialalia, and there's a good number of ethnic eateries dotting Georgetown and Adams Morgan. But, like its politics, D. C.'s restaurant scene lacks any real commitment or forward thinking. ninth RUNNER-UP: Miami Many of the prime movers of the New Florida Cuisine movement have gone the way of the Marlins' World Series roster, and Ocean Drive has become one long stretch of overpriced pasta-and-Perrier trattorias with line cooks instead of chefs. That leaves only Allen Susser of Chef Allen in Aventura and Norman Van Aken of Norman's in Coral Gables to carry the fine-dining torch. Fortunately, Miami also has Joe's Stone Crab. The lines for crab and Key-lime pie form early, with those who know how to palm a twenty sitting first. There are Italian designers, Czech models, and Brazilian boy toys huddled in the waiting room with New Jersey retirees and short ladies built like Jeeps. Delivery of the crab is ceremonial, but that formal demeanor drops as soon as you strap on your seafood bib and start dipping the claws into the mustard sauce. And, of course, the city's Little Havana thrives; you will find glorious black-bean soup at Malaga, coffee as thick as the air down there at Versailles, checkers till all hours of the night, and a medianoche sandwich for the way home. eighth RUNNER-UP: Seattle Seattle gives fusion cooking a good name. The City has emerged as a real crucible of convincing Pacific Rim cuisine at restaurants like Wild Ginger and the Dahlia Lounge, and the large Asian-immigrant population is keeping its American chefs honest. Beyond that, there is great seafood all over the territory: Score a window booth at Ray's Boathouse overlooking Shilshole Bay at twilight and be prepared to swoon. Take your time searching the wine list for an unfamiliar Washington Riesling or new Oregon pinot noir to accompany Ray's mussels with Thai lemongrass, the fat grilled salmon in peach-raisin chutney, or the fresh Pacific abalone. Or drop by a low-maintenance seafood joint like Ivar's Acres of Clams, which opened in 1938. Put these establishments together with delightfully uninhibited restaurants like the Painted Table and elegantly eclectic dining salons like Kaspar's and the Georgian Room at the Four Seasons, and you have the makings of a first-rate restaurant city where you really do get a sense of a finely developed local cuisine. Give it time: Seattle will move up. seventh RUNNER-UP: Dallas The Dallas scene has been plagued by three drawbacks: It has had a slow recovery from the recession, nobody wants to venture downtown to eat, and its most celebrated chefs are off too much of the time on media tours. Yet the city's deluxe restaurants-the Riviera, the French Room, and the Mansion on Turtle Creek-compete well on a national level, although there's a great deal of snobbery at the Mansion. Extend your hand to co-owner Franco Bertolasi at the elegant Riviera, however, and you'll have a friend for life. And since the opulent, boudoirlike French Room is rarely full, it, too, works extra hard to be nice.

Each season brings a few notable restaurants to town--the superb new Fish defies the long-held belief that Texas seafood must be fried in batter--but just as many disappear. Last year's biggest hit, Joey's, has already closed its doors. And much of the best in town is imported, like the Palm (from New York) and the Fog City Diner (from San Francisco). Time will only tell if the crowds will still mob Star Canyon and AquaKnox, now that they've been sold to a clone-crazy restaurant company. Still, the Mexican connection (probably better than Houston's or even San Antonio's) holds strong at Mario and Alberto, while Tex-Mex rules at Mia's and El Norte. And the Big D is home to Gennie's Bishop Grill, one of the last great American cafeterias, where chicken-fried steak with homemade yeast rolls is a religious experience. Then there's, the original Sonny Bryan's Smokehouse down on Inwood Road, which is a slice of Texas life you'll never forget. You mosey up to the counter of this roadside shack, put in your order, wait to be called by your initials, and finally sit down at a rickety school desk with just enough room for your tray. You take a bite of the beef brisket, and that's when it hits you: Dallas needs nothing more than Sonny's to make this list. sixth RUNNER-UP: Philadelphia No restaurant critic without heartburn o[ the brain would have placed Philadelphia on this list even five years ago, despite its having one of the greatest French restaurants (Le Bec-Fin), a trailblazing Chinese restaurant (Susanna Foo), one of the best hotel dining rooms in America (the Fountain at the Four Seasons), and a dozen places doing creditable variations on the cheesesteak. But the city has come far in a short time. Along Walnut Street, a series of converted bank buildings has brought both majesty and glamour to a formerly run-down thoroughfare. Striped Bass, with its magnificent design of marble pillars and its open kitchen, set the standard tot seafood restaurants of the nineties, and the triumphant Brasserie Perrier, with its art-deco design and sensual fusion food, is being monitored by other restaurateurs around the country. And though the town still lacks a first-rate Italian restaurant and all its best steak houses are imports, no city has better brew pubs, and the depth and diversity of a richly developed food culture can be captured on a stroll through the Reading Terminal Market. There, you can stand at the counter at Rick's and learn all you need to know about the true Philly cheesesteak; watch them make, bake, and slather with melted butter the soft pretzels at Fisher's; eat a piece of shoofly pie at one of the Pennsylvania-Dutch emporiums; sample scrapple at one of the German-butcher stalls; and have the best pancakes, stewed apples, and thick slabs of country bacon of your life at the Down Home Diner. fifth RUNNER-UP: Houston Houston has swagger in spades, and nowhere will you see more of it than in its restaurants, from the posh society salons like Tony's--full of very wealthy men and their very young second wives--to the more egalitarian joints like Goode Company Barbecue, in whose lot you can find parts for every truck built in America since 1947. Downtown's coming back big-time, and the billowing Vietnamese community contributes so mightily to the city's food culture that you can walk into a place like the gaudily decorated Kim Son, sit down to Gulf Coast blue crabs with black-bean sauce, and feel every bit as Houstonian as you would chowing the tacos al carbon at the original Ninfa's down on Navigation Boulevard. With the economy a gusher, residents will try anything new--the tapas at Solero, the chili-spiked mussels at Care Annie (where New Texas Cuisine began), the marinated grilled beef at Churrascos, and the cocktails and sushi at the red-hot Sake Lounge. Add to the list the fine steaks at Rotisserie for Beef and Bird, the brisket, ribs, and barbecue-baked-beans platter at Otto's (George Bush Sr.'s fave), the bread pudding at Brennan's, and the pecan quail with jalapeno-cheese grits at the new Urbana, and you've got good eats all around town. fourth RUNNER UP: Boston Boston's always been a good place to eat. You can watch a guy shuck the oysters at Ye Olde Union Oyster House as Daniel Webster did almost two centuries ago. At Durgin Park, you can plop down at a communal table serviced by an amiably surly waitress (call her a waitperson and she'll smile as she dumps your scrod in your lap), and savor every bite of the (usually) moist cornbread, the dam-packed chowder, the juicy short ribs, the smoky, sticky baked beans, and a slab of soft, sweet Indian pudding. Chinatown moves, the North End dishes out hearty Italian-American fare, the stately Ritz-Carlton Dining Room overlooks the Public Garden, and classical music and Victorian architecture provide a perfect backdrop to the exquisite French cuisine at L'Espalier.

In the past few years, a number of new restaurants, like La Bettola, Ambrosia on Huntington, Zinc, and Olives, have sprung up to give a pretty small town the range and innovative cooking to compete in the majors. From Cambridge to Brookline, there's now a good restaurant on every block to go with the Irish bar on every corner. third RUNNER-UP: Los Angeles For much of the eighties, L.A.. was the most: culinarily exciting, innovative, and influential city on earth. The Cal-Ital grill and the "superstar chef" were born at Wolfgang Puck's Spago around the same time that Mondays became the power night at Morton's, where guys with last names like Ovitz and Geffen made deals over crab cakes and Cobb salads with celebrities with first names like Sly and Madonna.

Then came the market crash, quakes, riots, and O.J. Simpson, and Angelenos lost their appetite for long drives to Malibu and effete French maitre d's in Beverly Hills. Famous chefs picked up and left or just lost interest in cooking at their own restaurants. The Dom Perignon was replaced by California sparklers, and the high-end restaurants ran out of new ideas. Still, there is culinary greatness out there, including the trend-setting Michael's, the revolutionary sushi bar at Matsuhisa, and the best Italian restaurant in America--Valentino. At the same time, Los Angeles maintains a very active prole food scene, and I still love cruising for the big burger at Cassell's, lining up outside Pink's for a shot at chili dogs, and lounging in a Naugahyde booth at a Googies-style coffee shop on Sunset, working on eggs rancheros with hash browns and half believing Samuel L. Jackson could come through the door at any minute. second RUNNER-UP: New Orleans You'll never convince New Orleanians their city isn't number one when it comes to restaurants and that an insatiable appetite for gumbo, jambalaya, and oysters Bienville isn't the same as good taste. But it's been said that New Orleans is a town of five hundred cooks making the same five dishes, and that's only a slight exaggeration. Even at the very top, New Orleans restaurants lack the refinement and radiance of the best in other cities. Problem is, you can pay as high a tab as you might in New York or Los Angeles and get much less for your money--inferior ingredients, cheap napery, thick glassware, and French bread with the consistency of cotton wadding. Nevertheless, I'd just as soon be out on the patio at Commander's Palace, eating the rich pecan trout during a jazz brunch while a waiter makes flaming cafe brulot, or over at the venerable Brennan's, sipping the zesty turtle soup with a Sazerac on the side, or sitting outside under the arches of the Cafe du Monde in lug-wrench-heavy humidity, getting powdered sugar all over my shirt while downing beignets and chicory coffee, as anywhere else on earth. Despite its heat, hubris, and languor, the town makes you crave Creole food three times a day: There's no resisting the enormous po'boys at Mother's, a cafeteria where asking for the "debris" from the brisket gets you the crispy bits soaked in beef juices; the barbecued shrimp swimming shamelessly in peppery butter at Pascal's Manale; the crowded crawfish bisque at Uglesich's (if you can ever get in); the soothing boiled beef and a dense brick of pecan pie at Tujague's; or the Monday-morning red beans and rice at the Gumbo Shop. first RUNNER-UP: Chicago Chicago sets no culinary trends, with few star chefs and just a handful of restaurants that rank with the best in the U.S., but there's no ten-course meal anywhere like the ten-course meal at Charlie Trotter's, no more refined Mexican fare than at Topolobampo, and no better testament to American food than at Spruce.

I find less attitude, fewer pretensions, and more good feelings in Chicago restaurants than anywhere else. Call Michael Jordan's over-the-top sports bar, and you get Jordan himself on a recorded message telling you his place is "a free throw away from the Loop." Its gaudy grandeur includes a 30X30 ft banner of Jordan leaping in the air, a 500 sq ft gift shop, and the world's largest video wall. Then there's Harry Caray's, itself a hilarious, none-too-subtle satire on the Chicago sports bar, with a series of tacky-looking dining rooms serving piles of chicken Vesuvio that would stop Refrig- erator Perry in his tracks.

Everything's bigger than life in Chicago. You'll find terrific seafood and an immense raw bar at Shaw's Crab House, good-as-they-get prime steaks at the crusty old Gene & Georgetti, and some of the best hotel dining rooms in the country at the Four Seasons and Ritz-Carlton. Chicago is also the last bastion of the grand German feed halls, like the North Side's Golden Ox, the blocksquare Zum Deutschen Eck, and the downtown Berghoff--celebrating its one-hundredth birthday this year-where you sit down amid ersatz Teutonic splendor to a huge platter of steamy, shiny-pink knockwurst with a heap of tangy sauerkraut and an iced stein of amber beer served by a waiter whose father probably had the same job. Chicago restaurateurs feel no shame in copying other cities' ideas, then making them a whole lot more fun, as at the garishly decorated Spanish tapas bar called Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba!, and that is what solidly locks the second city into second place. THE Best Rest City IN AMERICA: SFO. San Franciscans rightfully crow about the vitality of their rest scene, for this twinkling city takes food and dining out far more seriously than any other in America. It was the true birthplace of California Cuisine in the 70s, when a former Montessori teacher named Alice Waters opened up a funky little bistro in Berkeley called Chez Panisse, where she served set meals based on the revolutionary notion that food be fresh, seasonal, and local. But SFO is also a city of great grills, like Sam's, where you sit Hammett-like in a dark booth, peruse the menu, then press the buzzer to summon your waiter. Or you can walk through Chinatown and drop in for the BBQ red pork noodles in the frenetic, tiny Dol Ho, sample the unending array of dim sum at J&J, order any of the cod dishes at Imperial Palace, or get your yin and yang in sync with a bowl of congee-rice at Hing Lung for a just few bucks. The city's Asian influence is huge in just about every neighborhood, and new places like the Slanted Door (whose door isn't) in the Mission District have given a Calif- ornia edge to traditional Vietnamese food. For the vegee, the city has the world's best, most beautiful Zen Budd- hist run restaurant, Greens, perched above the shimmering water of the marina at Fort Mason. Romance hangs over SFO like its moody fog, and rests have created dazzling designs to echo the city's sybaritic cast, from the aqueous Captain Nemo motif at Farallon, which serves equally dazzling seafood, to the Hitchcock- ian angularity of Vertigo in the Transamerica Pyramid to the seragliolike salon of the subterranean Fleur de Lys, which has the best French cuisine in town. On top of all that, great food is cheaper in SFO than anywhere else. The ravenous locals care little for posh, preferring that the setting be fun, the fare serious, and the wine list impeccably matched to the menu. For a crash course in what SFOcans love about eating 'out in their city, head over to big, happy Rose Pistola in North Beach: You'll wait for a table, teased by the perfume of meats and whole fish turning on the rotisserie, get hungrier and hungrier, then gorge on octopus salad, Florentine steaks, and sumptuous pastas, all at prices no one would ever argue with. Of course, things could always change. Which, in the end, is the extraordinary strength of America's restaurants. You never know where your next great meal is going to come from.

ESQUIRE, JULY 1998. AMERICA'S BEST RESTAURANT CITIES. By John Mariani

Chicago Chop House, Chicago Gallegers, Manhattan, New York

Authentic Asian Fare in L.A., With or Without Formicahere are too many Asian restaurants in greater Los Angeles to get a handle on, which is not surprising given that more Asians live in Los Angeles than in any other metropolitan area outside of Asia. This is a city where fast food means Japanese noodles (or tacos) as often as it does hamburgers. More important than the quantity, of course, is the quality: With so many authentic Asian restaurants, narrowing down the choices is a challenge. This is restaurant food that is difficult to find in most of the country, and often better than it is back home, wherever "back home" might be. With that in mind, I decided to make the focus of my weeklong visit three pronged: First, I would look for innovative, contemporary Japanese cooking, the kind that is prohibitively expensive in most cities; second, I would seek out good Thai food, the likes of which is almost impossible to find, even in New York; and finally, I would check out some of the offbeat Chinese restaurants that Angeleno friends rave about. If I was disappointed at the end of my trip, it was only because I had no opportunity to sample Korean, Cambodian, Vietnamese, Indian, Burmese, or any of the other seemingly endless number of restaurants that dot nearly every strip mall. But although it takes some driving to find the best places -- especially intriguing is the San Gabriel Valley, where many Asians have chosen to settle after leaving downtown -- the game is worth the candle.

This is also a city in which Asian food is served in notably glitzy surroundings: For stylized Chinese food in a luxurious setting check out Yujean Kang's on Melrose in West Hollywood; for contemporary Japanese there's Matsuhisa on La Cienega in Beverly Hills, considered by many the best restaurant in southern California; and Thai food combined with upscale ambiance at Talésai. Asanebo n an unassuming strip mall in Studio City, Asanebo draws inspiration from Nobu Matsuhisa, offering an ever-changing chef's tasting menu of innovative dishes. There's a big difference here, though: a brilliant tasting menu at Asanebo is about $50, compared with at least $85 over the hills. The night I visited, specials included flounder with ponzu sauce, sautéed mushrooms with asparagus, and the ubiquitous grilled black cod with miso. The two of us let the chef choose, and wound up with none of these. He started us off with raw toro (fatty tuna) with shredded ginger, daikon, seaweed, raw garlic, and a touch of soy. This was followed by raw halibut with citrus pepper, a combination of black pepper and lemon; especially after the wallop packed by the first dish, it was extraordinarily refreshing. Next came a Spanish mackerel salad, with jellied red pepper, sprouts of black sesame seeds, and a few dressed greens. The dish was lovely, but more important was the sense that this meal was orchestrated, and that both rhythm and tune were appealing.

Next up was a dish of raw, rich, intensely flavored sweet shrimp, garnished with caviar, truffle oil and more sprouts, and then cooked baby spinach with mushrooms and crisp-fried potato threads. Dark, strong barracuda with a sauce of uni (sea urchin roe) followed, and then one more small dish, sautéed abalone with shiitake and beurre noisette, not exactly classic -- none of this was, really -- but delicious. The coup de grace: steamed snapper with creamy mountain potato and soba noodles in a thick dashi broth that was gloppy, elegant, and delicious at once -- true comfort food, and a perfect meal-ender. Portions were small enough so that we managed, if barely, to finish everything.

Presentation was dazzling, and timing and service were perfect. Nevertheless, you can't get a great meal for $50 without giving up something, and what you give up here is ambiance: there are walls the color of pistachio ice cream, a big red bamboo umbrella in the middle of the floor, bamboo curtains with tassels, Day-Glo menus. There's a good selection of cold sake, which I candidly admit to enjoying though knowing nothing about. And make sure to order mochi ice cream (made with a kind of rice paste) for dessert. Takao ushi is more the norm in this small, typical-looking place in swank Brentwood, but here too the interesting menus are put together by the chef and play down sushi. For omakase, chef's choice, there are several levels of expense: "great" at $50, "excellent" at $70 and "speechless" at $100 (and up).

More expensive menus may contain many of the same dishes as the moderately priced, but with flashier garnishes, like gold leaf and caviar. But to me the $50 and $70 meals are not as appealing as the $25 kaiseki lunch, eight or nine small dishes on a single tray. At my visit, this included dreamy tofu made with sesame paste; fish and vegetable tempura; crisp fried whitebait with crunchy, slightly sweet pickled vegetables and chilies; tuna and red snapper sashimi, both gorgeous; broiled black cod, served simply, with a slice of pickled daikon; poached shrimp and cucumber with a spicy mayonnaise-like sauce; lightly smoked salmon, dressed with olive oil, lemon and salt (reflecting the Japanese fascination with things Italian), and an assortment of steamed and pickled vegetables.

The $100 "speechless" meal was considerably grander, of course. The same tofu was served with a sauce of sea urchin roe, transporting it and its devourer straight to heaven. This was followed by three fish dishes: raw sweet shrimp with caviar and scallions, understated but sensational; steamed abalone with a dark, sweet soy sauce; and a raw spring roll of noodles, miso, shiso, crab and vegetables. At the risk of listing great-sounding dishes forever, a real danger here, I will hit the highlights: crisp-fried fish skeleton (better than the best French fries); baked conch; dark miso soup that put the standard stuff to shame, and jellied aloe for dessert. I'm one of those people who believe everything should be eaten, but I also prefer to enjoy my adventures, and there was nothing here that wasn't worth the risk. Service is brisk, friendly, and perfectly efficient, there is a good, reasonably priced wine list, real tablecloths and napkins, and a bright, pleasant, modern look. But although Takao is trendy (reviews list the stars who eat there), the overall atmosphere is unassuming.

The menu board outside gives no clue to the wonders within, and it is filled with typical Japanese restaurant fare, from the usual sushi special to chicken teriyaki. Ignore all of this and ask the chef to send out whatever your budget allows. Renu Nakorn his Thai restaurant in the little-known town of Norwalk (although it's less than 30 minutes from downtown, most Angelenos I encountered seemed to be unaware of its existence, and one even said, "Connecticut?") is a place you should go for no reason other than to eat great, surprising, unusual food. A colleague described Renu Nakorn as "the best Thai restaurant in the United States," and I was not disappointed: The food was the best I have had outside of Thailand.

The menu focuses on the cuisine of Issan, in northeastern Thailand, and the dishes tend to be on the fiery side. Knowing this, we asked that they be kept mild. The kitchen will cook for you, or at least suggest dishes; what you want here are the things not offered elsewhere. I could make a meal of nue dad deaw, Thai beef jerky. It's cured with anise and served with a mild roast chili sauce, and is at once chewy, greasy, salty, hot, spicy, tough, stringy and crisp. (I wonder why American fast-food joints don't work on something like this.) Teamed with som thum, a fresh-tasting salad of green papaya, shredded tomato, lemongrass, and lime vinaigrette, it is perfect. I also loved en tuan, a dark, deep beef broth with sliced beef and beef tendon -- don't knock it until you try it -- spiked with scallions, cilantro and Thai basil. Those who are still able to relish a dish dominated by fat will enjoy kraphao moo krob, crisp pork belly with tons of basil; I couldn't stop eating it. Equally flavorful and considerably leaner was larb koong, diced shrimp with basil, cilantro, mint, nam pla (Thai fish sauce) and onion.

Renu Nakorn is too big, clean, friendly, and comfortable to be a hole in the wall. But the only luxury is that of flavor; the atmosphere is dull and ordinary, the location even worse. It's a place for food lovers only, but those who make the journey will be well rewarded. Talésai f Renu Nakorn is not your style, you might consider Talésai, about as upscale a Thai restaurant as I've encountered. Conveniently situated on Sunset Boulevard, it has better-than-average food and a delightful, bright, modern ambiance -- downright yuppified in fact, down to the orchids and gold tableware. The cooking is bold but not overwhelming (no need to specify "mild" dishes here) and you can linger for hours over well-prepared, nicely presented dishes. Just don't expect any surprises. Nevertheless, there are attention and skill at work, and the flavors are authentic. Deep-fried soft-shell crab with a simple dressing of nam pla and lime was delicious, as were a crisp, spicy duck salad with mixed greens and peanuts, and a plate of eggplant with black bean sauce. Fried tofu with a peanut dipping sauce was equally appealing. Lamb in brown curry sauce, brought to the table at just about the moment we couldn't eat another bite, was irresistible, a near-perfect execution of a standard dish. When we asked for a dish with yellow curry -- my favorite "standard" Thai sauce -- we were brought grilled salmon, nice and rare, with yellow curry sauce served like a Hollandaise, an Americanism that worked well. Some dishes, though flavorful, are too showy: "bags of gold," ravioli stuffed with shrimp and tied with chives, or "hidden treasures," squid and shrimp served on a pottery plate with little indented compartments, each with a separate cover. Similarly, there are filet mignon satay and grilled spicy ostrich on the menu. But there are times when that's exactly what you want.

China Islamic Restaurant Anyone curious about Islamic Chinese food -- which features bread in addition to rice, no pork dishes, a lot of unusual ingredients, and (sadly, for some of us) no alcohol -- must make the pilgrimage to the San Gabriel Valley town of Rosemead. Here the adventurous will find an almost blindingly lighted restaurant with round Formica tables outfitted with lazy susans, friendly and helpful service, windows with mosquelike cutouts, and a confusing but ultimately appealing menu. The trick is to avoid ordering anything you've eaten in other Chinese restaurants -- fried wontons, for example, or chicken with broccoli -- and go straight for the bizarre. Which is easy, since there are so many unfamiliar dishes here.

No matter how strange the description, though, most of this food tastes and feels familiar. Cold spicy beef, for example, is essentially corned beef, and cries out for mustard. Fortunately, the tripe salad with mung noodles and cucumber is served with plenty of fiery mustard sauce. Thin-sliced ox tendon with scallions is scented with five-spice powder and sesame oil, and is a wonderful nibble. Everyone orders the huge sesame bread, a kind of thick, hot, doughy pizza with sesame seeds and scallions. The best dishes I had were the wonderful lamb with pickled cabbage, reminiscent of choucroute garni, and oxtail warm pot. (We got a medium, a full meal for four of us; a large would probably require a forklift.) This lightly spiced broth contained loads of vegetables, mung bean noodles, tofu, and lots of meat, all on the bone -- a mess, but a delicious, homey one. Tongue in brown sauce and beef noodle soup were also delicious. Generally, seafood dishes were worth eating but somewhat less successful.

Empress Pavilion his is a huge restaurant in downtown Los Angeles, in the largely Vietnamese neighborhood that is still called Chinatown. It specializes in dim sum, and is if anything cheaper, better and offering a more varied selection than the best of the Bowery. You might begin with a puffy, deep-fried roll of shrimp and mango, or a fresh, thick rice noodle stuffed with shrimp; continue with steamed dumplings filled with crunchy minced turnip, carrot and celery, along with some pork and herbs; then move to the ultimate steamed pork bow, made with several kinds of pork, including sausage and innards, lightly seasoned with cinnamon. There are steamed vegetables with soy, cold roast pork on cooked greens, beautiful shrimp dumplings, octopus with chilies, chicken feet, braised bean curd, garlicky spare ribs and turnip cakes. All of this is served from rolling carts, and many plates cost just $2 each. Which makes this about the least expensive good restaurant around: six of us ordered two of every dish we saw and were forced to stop when we nearly exploded; the total bill was just over $50. Even though it has something like 650 seats, Empress Pavilion is usually quite crowded, especially on weekends. But it serves dim sum at weekday lunches, and it is fast, satisfying, inexpensive and very good. Although I did not sample any, reports indicate that the special family and banquet menus are wonderful. If so, they are amazing bargains: eight courses, beginning at $148 for 10 people, up to $378 for 10.

Thai, Japanese and Chinese Smoking is not allowed in California restaurants. Some of those listed close relatively early; call to check hours. All major credit cards are accepted at all except Renu Nakorn, which accepts two. Estimated prices assume a full meal but no alcohol; sake, wine or beer is available at all the restaurants except China Islamic. The starting price for a bottle of wine ranges from $12 at Renu Nakorn or Empress Pavilion to $28 at Takao.

Asanebo, 11941 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City; (818) 760-3348. Dinner Tuesday through Sunday; lunch Tuesday through Friday. Reservations recommended. Free parking in an open lot. Dinner for two, $100 or less.

Takao, 11656 San Vincente Boulevard, Brentwood; (310) 207-8636. Lunch daily except Sunday; dinner, every day. Reservations essential. Valet parking at dinner, lot behind the restaurant at lunch. Lunch for two, about $50; dinner for two, $100.

Renu Nakorn, 13041 East Rosecrans Avenue, Norwalk; (562) 921-2124. Lunch and dinner every day. Reservations recommended on weekends and accepted at other times. Free parking in open lot. A generous lunch or dinner for two, about $40.

Talésai, 9043 Sunset Boulevard (at Doheny), West Hollywood; (310) 275-9724. Lunch, Monday through Friday; dinner, seven days. Reservations recommended at dinner. Valet parking at dinner; street parking at lunch (or use the Citibank lot around the corner for $2.50). Lunch or dinner for two, about $60.

China Islamic Restaurant, 7727 East Garvey Avenue, Rosemead; (626) 288-4246. Lunch and dinner Thursday through Tuesday. Reservations suggested on weekends and accepted at other times. Free parking on street (and easy to find). Lunch or dinner for two, $30 or less.

Empress Pavilion, Bamboo Plaza (2d level), 988 North Hill Street, Los Angeles; (213) 617-9898. Monday through Friday, 9 A.M. to 10 P.M.; Saturday and Sunday, 8 A.M. to 10 P.M. Reservations accepted weekdays only. Parking is in attached garage. Breakfast, lunch, or dinner for two, $20 and up.


\1 Los Angeles

ßairport: LAX Intl.. 20mi/SW Speedy van, door to door. Santa Monica: 3rd St Promenade, Pier. Venice is good alternative to Santa Monica. Eat at Sidewalk Cafe on the boardwalk. Conflicting images of L.A. spark and flicker across our tv and movie screens: the glamour of Hollywood and gang violence; fun in the sun and smog; fast cars and snarled traffic. From what nonresidents can gather, Los Angeles is a land of disaster and style, of earthquakes and movers and shakers. Its residents seem to adjust to a rhythm that alternates between stress and relaxation, but out-of-towners -- fortunately -- tend to experience much more of the latter than the former. L.A. is a great place in which to do business or take a vacation. Marvelous restaurants, terrific nightlife, the beach, the mountains, eclectic architecture, diverse cultural offerings, Disneyland and easygoing attitudes mix in a vast territory flooded with sunshine and lined with palms. Los Angeles' first Spanish settlers in 1781 gave their dusty town a very large name -- El Pueblo de Nuestra Senora la Reina de Los Angeles (the Town of Our Lady the Queen of the Angels). Citrus groves and bean fields filled the wide-open spaces of the basin until the 1920s, when the idea of California as the last frontier/land of opportunity sparked a massive westward movement. Among the first to relocate to the "other" coast were moviemakers drawn by year-round sunshine. Farmers followed in the '30s, escaping drought and the Great Depression. Business executives arrived in the '50s and '60s to seek opportunities in aerospace and technology. Joining them were immigrants from China and Southeast Asia, Mexico and Central America, Europe and the Middle East. Together they forged a city that's now the capital of the Pacific Rim, as well as the world's multimedia nerve center, an international aerospace hub and a multicultural magnet. The multiethnic vitality and creativity of Los Angeles have made it one of the world's more engaging big cities. TO DO: Sights: Back lots and sound stages at Warner Bros. and Universal Studios; TV show tapings; celebrity handprints at Mann's Chinese Theater; mansions of Beverly Hills; Union Station; the Santa Monica Pier; Malibu Beach; Huntington Library. Museums: Getty Center; Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Museum of Contemporary Art; California Science Center; Norton Simon Museum; Autry Museum of Western Heritage; Museum of Tolerance; Museum of Television and Radio. Memorable Meals: Summer picnics during concerts in the Hollywood Bowl; seafood at the Water Grill; French-Californian cuisine at Citrus; afternoon tea at the Living Room in the Peninsula Beverly Hills Hotel; dining alfresco on the Sunset Strip or in the gardens of Hotel Bel-Air; a meal at Campanile, accompanied by fresh-baked bread from their own La Brea Bakery; a Sunday gospel brunch at the House of Blues. Late Night: Blues at the Mint; comedy and rock at clubs on the Sunset Strip; jazz at the Atlas Bar and Grill; salsa dancing at the Conga Room. Walks: Los Angeles Conservancy walking tours of downtown; hiking trails of the Santa Monica Mountains; Huntington Botanical Gardens; Venice boardwalk; Santa Monica's Ocean Avenue Promenade. DAY TRIPS: To Ojai Valley. Two hours north of L.A. lies the artist community of Ojai, the inspiration for the mythical Shangri-La in Frank Capra's 1937 film classic, Lost Horizon. Browse through craft galleries and roadside fruit stands. The Ojai Valley Museum has information on artists, galleries and theater productions. Open We-Fr 1-4 p.m., Sa & Su 10 a.m.-4 p.m. 130 W. Ojai Ave., phone 805-640-1390. Contact the Ojai Valley Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center for more info. Daily 10 a.m.-4 p.m. 150 W. Ojai Ave., phone 805-646-8126.

To Palos Verdes/San Pedro/Long Beach. Take the Pacific Coast Highway south from Redondo Beach to Palos Verdes Boulevard and turn west toward the coast. Watch for scenic overlook stops, where you can admire beautiful sunsets or perhaps spot California gray whales migrating between Alaska and Baja -- especially during their peak migration months (from December to mid April). For whale-watching information, call 310-832-4444. Farther up the road, visit Wayfarer's Chapel, a glass and redwood architectural wonder designed by Lloyd Wright (Frank's son) in 1946. The grounds and chapel are open daily 7 a.m.-5 p.m., except when a wedding is taking place. 5755 Palos Verdes Dr. S., Rancho Palos Verdes, phone 310-377-1650. Farther up the road, visit Wayfarer's Chapel, a glass and redwood architectural wonder designed by Lloyd Wright (Frank's son) in 1946. The grounds and chapel are open daily 7 a.m.-5 p.m., except when a wedding is taking place. Services are Sunday at 10 a.m. 5755 Palos Verdes Dr. S., Rancho Palos Verdes, phone 310-377-1650. Continue on to San Pedro where you can choose between Ports O' Call Shopping Village or the Cabrillo Marine Aquarium. The tide pool touch tank is open for 20-minute periods Tuesday-Friday at 1:30, 2:30 and 3:30 p.m., Saturday and Sunday each hour from 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m. 3720 Stephen White Dr. (off Pacific Avenue), phone 310-548-7562. Then continue over the scenic Vincent Thomas Bridge to Long Beach, where the majestic Queen Mary floating hotel/restaurant/museum awaits. (see below) Self-guided tours are available. New additions to the premises include a Titanic exhibit and a Scorpion submarine. These may be added to the tour package for an additional cost. Daily 9 a.m.-9 p.m. in the summer and 10 a.m.-6 p.m. in the winter. Pier J at the end of Long Beach Freeway (I-170), Long Beach Harbor, phone 562-435-3511.. To Joshua Tree National Monument. This national park, not too far from Palm Springs, has some of the best climbing in the U.S. and is a fine example of California desert. There's good hiking in the section of the park called the Wonderland of Rocks. $10 fee for entry to the monument. There's no charge for camping and no reservations are required (but some spots, such as Hidden Valley, get crowded). Take food, water, firewood and warm clothes. Information is available at the park entrance or at the Visitors Center, 74485 National Park Dr., 29 Palms, phone 760-367-5500. To Pioneertown. Take 29 Palms Highway (Highway 62) to the west end of Yucca Valley, then travel north for 5 mi/8 km on Pioneertown Road. There you can self-tour old western movie sets and mail a postcard from the nation's tiniest post office. To Palm Springs. This celebrity-magnet offers year-round activities, but you may be fighting 105 F/40 C heat in the summer. Cool off by taking the funicular tram up into the San Jacinto mountains or play the slots in the air-conditioned Indian gambling rooms. Winter weather is glorious and the city draws tennis and golf enthusiasts to its high-profile tournaments. January brings out the Hollywood crowd for the Palm Springs Film Festival. The city is 110 mi/175 km east of L.A. via I-10. Take the Highway 111 exit. For more information, call or visit the Palm Springs Visitor Information Center, 2781 N. Palm Canyon Dr., phone 800-347-7746. For Palm Springs Aerial Tramway tickets and information, call 760-325-1391. To Catalina Island. This is the home of the Mediterranean-style town of Avalon, with its small-town charm and circular Moorish-style casino (now a concert venue) on the harbor. The population of 2,500 swells to nearly 20,000 in season, yet three-quarters of the island remains undeveloped. A herd of wild buffalo left by a film crew years ago roams the interior sections. You can get to Catalina by boat (sometimes rough) or by air. The quickest route on water is Catalina Express -- one hour each way. Long Beach departure from Queen Mary Landing; San Pedro departure from Berth 95. Phone 310-519-1212. Catalina Cruises, which also has spring-season whale-watching trips and camping trips, sails to Avalon numerous times per day. Tours leave every two hours. Call for schedules. Located at 320 Golden Shore, Long Beach, phone 800-228-2546. If you go via Island Express Helicopter Service, it's only 15 minutes each way by air. Dep are available from San Pedro or Long Beach. Phone 310-510-2525 or 800-228-2566.

To Channel Islands National Park. This is a chain of eight small bodies of land off the coast of Ventura, about 60 mi/95 km from L.A. Seals, sea lions and pelicans thrive in the waters, which are protected as a marine sanctuary. Rangers conduct walks on San Miguel and Santa Rosa Islands. Boats depart daily to Anacapa Island from both Ventura Harbor and Channel Islands Harbor in Oxnard. Call Island Packers Company for information on boat fares and schedules: 805-642-1393. From L.A. take the Ventura Highway (Highway 101) west to the Ventura coast. Travel time is 60-90 minutes. For further information, contact the Channel Islands National Park Visitor Center, 1901 Spinnaker Dr., Ventura, phone 805-658-5730. To Laguna Beach. Laguna Beach is a picturesque seaside resort town with easy access to the beach. The streets are lined with art galleries, shops, bars and restaurants. You can spend the whole day in your swimsuit in this casual community. In the summer, the town center hosts the free Sawdust Festival where local artists display and sell their work. Laguna Beach is 55 mi/90 km south of L.A. Take I-405 south to the Highway 133 exit (Laguna Canyon Road). For a more scenic but much longer journey, head south on the Pacific Coast Highway. Laguna Beach Visitor Information Center provides maps and visitors guides. 252 Broadway, Laguna Beach, phone 949-497-9229 ext. 0 or 800-877-1115. WITH KIDS: -- Disneyland; Six Flags Magic Mountain and Hurricane Harbor; thrill rides and studio tour at Universal Studios Hollywood; Los Angeles Zoo; Natural History Museum; California Science Center.

LODGING: Staying overnight in Los Angeles can be expensive, but you'll find a full range of accommodations from budget lodgings to the most luxurious hotels imaginable. Because of the city's notoriously heavy traffic, try to stay somewhat close to the areas you're most interested in. If a swimming pool is important, don't worry, L.A. has many. It's possible to play tennis next to the beach, even while staying very close to the airport. Some hotels provide transportation to local attractions. Many hotels offer child care, nonsmoking rooms and multilingual staffs.

Below is a sampling of accommodations; it is not intended to be a comprehensive list. Expect costs to fall within these general guidelines, based on the standard rate for a single room: $ = $80-$125; $$ = $126-$185; $$$ = $186-$250; $$$$ = more than $250. Check for varying rates that may be extended to business travelers, for conventions or on weekends. AT OR NEAR THE AIRPORT:: Barnabey's -- Just 2 mi/3 km south of the airport, this hotel has an award-winning restaurant, English-style pub, semicovered pool, nearby fitness center, jogging path to the beach and a 24-hour airport shuttle. Accommodates up to 200 people for a meeting. $$. 3501 Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach. Phone 310-545-8466. Fax 310-545-8621. Quality Hotel Airport -- This budget hotel has an outdoor pool, mall-style food court that offers meals 6 a.m.-10 p.m. and a free shuttle to and from the airport available 24 hours a day. Conference facilities for up to 400 people. $. 5249 Century Blvd. Phone 310-645-2200. Fax 310-641-8214.

CITY: Clarion Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel -- Frequented by stars during Hollywood's heyday and restored to its former grandeur, this legendary hotel across from Mann's Chinese Theater has a comfortable lobby bar, a restaurant and an outdoor Olympic-size pool. A fitness center is now installed, and movie memorabilia is displayed on the mezzanine. The intimate Cinegrill books sophisticated cabaret acts, and the hotel is the site of the annual Hollywood Film Festival in the fall. Meeting facilities accommodate 250. $. 7000 Hollywood Blvd. Phone 323-466-7000. Fax 323-462-8056.

Matsuhisa -- Chef Nobu prepares traditional sushi as well as avant-garde Japanese cuisine enhanced by sauces made with garlic, fresh chile or caviar. Specialties include grilled toro fish and crab broiled with chile-mayonnaise dressing. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:45 a.m.-2:15 p.m.; dinner Monday-Sunday 5:45-10:15 p.m. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 129 N. La Cienega Blvd. Phone 310-659-9639.

Patina -- This is the crown jewel in Chef Joachim Splichal's expanding empire of Pinot restaurants. French-California cooking is paired with rare seasonal delights such as wild partridge, grouse and venison. We like their rich, creamy mashed potatoes. Lunch is served Tuesday only, noon-2 p.m. Dinner Sunday-Friday 6-10 p.m., Saturday 5:30-10 p.m. $$$. Most major credit cards. 5955 Melrose Ave. Phone 323-467-1108.

SEAFOOD: Water Grill -- A vast selection of fresh seafood is served daily: Twelve varieties of oysters and fish from the Pacific Northwest, the East Coast and New Zealand are on the menu. Good service. Monday-Wednesday 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.; Thursday and Friday 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday 5-10 p.m., Sunday 4:30-9 p.m. Reservations recommended. Semicasual attire or better is required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 544 S. Grand Ave. Phone 213-891-0900.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES: Dar Maghreb -- A fixed price gets you a pillow seat, a seven-course Moroccan meal (including lemon chicken, lamb kabob and roasted pigeon) and a floor show with belly dancers. $35 per person. Monday-Friday 6-11 p.m.; Saturday 5:30-11 p.m.; Sunday 5:30-10:30 p.m. Reservations required. 7651 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood. Phone 323-876-7651. Milky Way -- This kosher dairy restaurant is notable for its personable owner, director Steven Spielberg's mother, who is usually on hand to greet diners. Lunch Sunday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-8:30 p.m. $. Most major credit cards. 9108 W. Pico Blvd., Beverly Hills Adjacent. Phone 310-859-0004. Tam O'Shanter -- This spot is a bit of Scotland not far from Griffith Park. It serves such traditional English fare as roast beef and Yorkshire pudding with trifle, and even haggis on Robert Burns' birthday. The lively bar serves sandwiches and ale by the half yard (a very large glass). Lunch Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner Su-Th 5-9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5-10:30 p.m. Su brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. $$. Most major credit cards. 2980 Los Feliz Blvd. Phone 323-664-0228.

GEOGRAPHY Greater Los Angeles is a geological and architectural conglomeration. It's situated in a basin -part of the mountains and desert valleys that spread out across Southern California and end abruptly at the Pacific coast. Los Angeles is made up of many different neighborhoods, but their boundaries can be difficult to pin down because they're determined more by culture than geography. An extensive, and notoriously frenzied, freeway system connects the disparate parts of the city, which covers more than 4,000 sq mi/10,000 sq km. From a distance, the cluster of skyscrapers in downtown Los Angeles looks like a bunch of asparagus, planted about 15 mi/24 km from the ocean. Downtown encompasses the convention center, Chinatown, Little Tokyo, the Music Center and some major museums. Most of the attractions of interest to visitors are to the west and north. As you head west from downtown toward the coast, you reach Hollywood (with its famous sign), West Hollywood (the center of L.A.'s vibrant gay community), affluent Beverly Hills and Brentwood (with their mansions and manicured lawns) and then the beach towns of Santa Monica, Malibu and Venice Beach. South of Venice Beach and just inland is the Los Angeles International Airport. South of downtown are the more depressed areas of South Central, and east of downtown, across the cement-lined Los Angeles River, is East L.A., a predominantly Latino area. The San Fernando Valley -known simply as "The Valley" -lies beneath a ridge of hills to the north and extends west from Burbank to Calabasas. Northeast of downtown, the San Gabriel Valley extends east from Glendale and Pasadena to Arcadia and beyond.

An array of nightclubs citywide keeps Angelenos hopping till 2 am. For a plethora of nightspots, try Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade or Hollywood's famous Sunset Strip (parking spots are hard to find on the Strip -check signs for restrictions). Cover charges range US$5-$20 and there are often long lines to get in. Tickets to some clubs listed are available through Ticketmaster, phone 213-480-3232. The nightlife is as varied as the city's residents, but you'll find live music everywhere. Don't let the funky facade at the House of Blues fool you -it's thoroughly modern and packs in the crowds for blues, jazz, rock, hip-hop, you name it. For those in need of an acoustic fix, head to the Troubadour or McCabe's. And an evening at an L.A. comedy club can provide a rollicking good time. We suggest the Improv or the Comedy and Magic Club (if you've planned ahead and reserved a seat). Those pining for the glamour days of Hollywood's past can relive it at the Coconut Club, a revival of the old Coconut Grove. And for dancing, head to the Conga Room for its Latin beat.

BARS, TAVERNS AND PUBS Barney's Beanery -This is a popular watering hole for a game of pool and a pub meal. The diner was immortalized in a painting by Ed Kienholtz in the '60s, and it hasn't changed since. Daily 11 am-2 am. 8447 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood. Phone 323-654-2287.

Cat & Fiddle Pub and Restaurant -Its outdoor patio is an oasis on the hectic Strip. The darts, beer, food, staff, train-station signs and free newspapers are British. Jazz on Sunday. Must be age 21 after the kitchen closes at 11:30 pm Sunday-Thursday, and at 12:30 am Friday and Saturday. Daily 11:30 am-2 am. 6530 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood. Phone 323-468-3800.

Molly Malone's Irish Pub -They come for the Irish music, rock, reggae, blues, Guiness, Harp and friendly faces. Must be age 21. Daily 10 am-2 am. Cover ranges US$3-$5. 575 S. Fairfax Ave., Hollywood. Phone 323-935-1577.

House of Blues -The venture of Dan Ackroyd and friends is a big, fun roadhouse on Sunset Strip. It's been visited by superstars such as Steve Winwood, Al DiMeola, Mick Jagger and members of Duran Duran. Reserve two weeks in advance for the Sunday gospel brunch. You must be age 21 for most shows. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch 11:30 am-5:30 pm, daily for dinner 5:30-11:30 pm. Live music often continues till 2 am. Sunday brunch at 9:30 am, noon and 2:30 pm. Cover varies greatly (US$7-$50), but averages US$17. 8430 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood. Phone 323-848-5100 (box office).

Day Trip to Long Beach

- Escaping the summer heat lures us toward the ocean, to some unique sea side attractions. Our adventure starts by viewing the vibrant colorful life found under the surface of the Pacific and ends aboard the world's largest ocean liner.

The authors of the book titled, Pocket Guide to the Best of Los Angeles, have planned an exciting day for you beginning at the Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific, grabbing a bite to eat and exploring the shops in Shoreline Village, followed by experiencing the legendary ocean liner, the Queen Mary.

So round up friends and family, grab this column, jump in the car and head to Long Beach. Take the 405 Freeway to the 710 Freeway, head west following the signs to the Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific. Parking is avail for $6 per day. Plan on leaving your car in the parking structure while visiting the other attractions. For a different experience, the kids would enjoy riding the Metro Rail to Long Beach (800-266-6883). Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific Too few of us have the opportu-nities to explore and discover the mystical life and environments found in the Pacific Ocean.

The Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific allows us to travel through these environments and view various forms of life and surroundings found in the depths of the sea. Through dozens of breathtaking exhibits you will see more than 12,000 fascinating ocean inhabitants including some 550 different species.

The two level facility includes spectacular exhibits featuring, the Southern California/Baja Region, the Northern Pacific Region, Tropical Pacific Region and a special exhibit "Jellies: Phantoms of the Deep". Guests can also witness the Blue Cavern Habitat, where leopard sharks, barracuda and other species dwell. The Southern California/Baja Gallery is populated by a variety of inhabitants surrounded by an undersea kelp forest. Enjoy the agile sea lions, seals, octopus, leopard sharks and endangered sea turtles. You will find yourself nose-to-nose with the sleekest swim team around. The seals and sea lions can be viewed both from underwater and above water while they romp and play. Did you know seals can hold their breath for 28 minutes, and sea lions have been known to dive 900 feet? Kid’s Cove features interactive exhibits where kids can learn the family structure, feeding habits and home life of marine animals and much more. Everyone loves touching the tide pool treasures including live sea urchins, sea snails, starfish and clams. Get a thrill out of touching live sting rays at the petting pond. Don’t worry, the rays don’t sting. The Northern Pacific Gallery moves far north to the frigid Bering Sea. You will see puffins and diving birds nesting overhead as sea otters frolic in their native waters. Also on display are thousands of schooling fish, large eels, giant octopuses and six foot wide Japanese spider crabs lurking in the icy waters. The Tropical Pacific Gallery heads due south to the Pacific's warmest waters of Micronesia. Here you can see and touch teams of colorful creatures in tee Coral Lab. The blue waters of the deep coral reef (the largest Aquarium habitat) has a panoramic vision of vibrantly colored sea life with constantly circling sharks. It is an absolutely awesome experience. You can watch trained Aquarium divers feed the fish and clean the habitat. These divers are equipped with microphones and will talk to you and answer your questions as they work underwater. The "Jellies: Phantoms of the Deep" Gallery is a temporary exhibit, but don’t worry, it will not move until 2002. What a spectacular experience! Featured are more than a dozen species of sea jellies. They never cease to inspire and mystify us. They have no eyes, no brain, no heart and yet they are alive, pulsating and drifting through coastal waters and icy ocean trenches. Sea jellies range in size not much larger than a pencil eraser to those longer than a basketball court. The awesome lion's mane jelly has tentacles that can reach more than 100 feet in the wild. The Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific is open seven days a week, 9 am until 6 pm. General Admission: $14.95, Seniors (60 years and older) $11.95, Children (ages 3-11) $7.95. You may call (562) 590-3100 and pre-order tickets by phone. For more information visit the official web site. After exiting the Aquarium, take a stroll along Rainbow Harbor to Shoreline Village where you will find a lively, scenic boardwalk of quaint shops abound with specialty gifts and souvenirs, and waterfront dining. If you have time you might want to go on a 45 minute harbor cruise (Adults $7 - Children $3) or just get a bite to eat. To get to the Queen Mary, take the colorful AquaBus, a 49-passenger boat ($2 ea.), across the harbor. Or ride free on the bright red Passport Shuttle Buses. The Queen Mary Like most people, you will be amazed at her enormous size and stature. The Queen Mary, with unmatched grace and peerless power, was nothing less than a floating miracle. The epitome of engineering, craftsmanship and artistry, she was unlike anything the ocean had ever known and she remains the most famous ship in history. Yes, the Queen Mary will create a lasting impression long after your tour is completed, because within her confines, a magnificent moment in history has been recaptured for all to enjoy. Many hours can be spent strolling the decks and exploring the ship’s many facets at a leisurely pace. General admission: Adults $17, Senior/Military $15 and Children (ages 3-11) $13, includes a self-guided shipwalk tour and "Ghosts & Legends." The self-guided shipwalk tour begins with introductory exhibits and a short film detailing the ship’s history including newsreel footage from the 30’s and 40’s. From there, you will wander through the engine room exhibits and massive machinery that once propelled the historic ocean liner across the Atlantic. Continuing on the upper decks, you will relive the Queen Mary’s more than 60-year history through various displays including stateroom and dining room exhibits, which feature many authentic furnishings. A collection of World War II displays examines life as a GI aboard “The Grey Ghost,” a name given to the Queen Mary during her tenure as a troopship because of her camouflage color and incredible speed. With each step, another part of the Queen Mary’s glorious past is revealed, from the first-class playroom to the list of celebrity passengers who traveled on board. Included with General Admission you will experience "Ghosts & Legends," an interactive, special effects, 30 minute guided tour through the mysterious lower decks of the ship, some never before seen by the public. The tour dramatizes actual paranormal and historic events reported over the past 60 years. "Ghosts & Legends" is a little hokey, but fun. It is suggested you take this tour first, then you will have a better understanding of the many placards which you will see on your self-guided tour of the ship identifying and detailing ghost sightings. For an additional fee (Adults $8, Children $5), you can be escorted by a knowledgeable tour guide on a one hour narrative journey to areas of the ship not open to the public, recalling the history and romance of this famed ocean liner. This tour is highly recommend. We were quite amazed that our tour guide had so much knowledge, and we were even more amazed when Casey told us that it was only her second day as a tour guide. Lastly, you can tour an authentic Russian Foxtrot-class Submarine (docked next to the Queen Mary) code name “Scorpion” which is near operational condition. You will board the submarine and enter the forward torpedo room, squeeze along central corridors (climbing through hatches to pass from area to area), inspect crew quarters, explore the top-secret communications center and peer through the periscope. Before, climbing aboard you will watch a ten minute video presentation featuring submarine history, mystery and lore. Admission: Adults $10 and Seniors/ Children/Military $9. A Navigator Package which includes General Admission, "Ghost & Legends," one hour tour of Queen Mary with tour guide, and Russian Submarine can be purchased for: Adults $27, Senior/ Military $25 and Children (ages 3-11) $24.

\2 Philadelphia

Broad/Market is city hall and center of town. East on Market is Society Hill, west across the river is the U of Penn. ßairport: PHL Intl. 8mi/SW. SEPTA > 30th St Sta. $5.

Int'l House, 3701 Chestnut. Society Hill Htl 3rd/Chesnut.

Reading Term Mkt, 12/Arch St. 4th St Deli, 4th/Bainbridge, egg creams. Jim's cheese steaks, 400 South St. 

Budget: The 166-room Holiday Inn Express, 1305 Walnut Street, (215) 735-9300, fax (215) 732-2682, is just a few blocks from the Convention Center and moments from the city's two major theaters, the Forrest and the Walnut Street. Doubles are $120; if you mention the flower show, $95. The Clarion Suites, 1010 Race Street, (215) 922-1730, (800) 252-7466, fax (215) 922-1730, should be especially convenient for families: all 96 suites have kitchenettes; some have separate bedrooms. It is smack in the middle of Chinatown, so finding a restaurant or take-out isn't a problem. The building, formerly home to the Bentwood Rocking Chair Factory, has much of its original detail, like exposed brick walls and wooden beams in the suites. Suites are $169 (flower show special rate: $159). Luxury: The 290-room Ritz-Carlton, 17th between Chestnut and Market Streets, (215) 563-1600, fax (215) 567-2822, is nestled next to Liberty One, the glamorous, glass tower that defined the business district's new skyline 10 years ago. The hotel, with comfortable rooms decorated in a traditional style, is an easy walk from the Convention Center. A flower show package is $215 during the week, $185 for Friday or Saturday night, including two passes to the show; otherwise, $189 weekends, $225 weekdays. The Rittenhouse, in a slightly quieter quarter of Center City, looks out onto Rittenhouse Square, where, later in the spring, the fountain will flow and masses of daffodils and tulips will bloom. The sleek, contemporary hotel, (215) 546-9000, (800) 635-1042, fax (215) 732-3364, with 98 rooms and 37 suites, has flower show packages at $335 weekdays, $295 weekends. Two tickets to the show are included. Regular rates: $190 weekends; $340 weekdays. Where to Eat he thoroughly opulent Deux Cheminées, 1221 Locust Street, (215) 790-0200, formal in both its French cooking and its Philadelphian reserve, occupies two 19th-century town houses designed by Frank Furness. It's impossible to think light here; the rack of lamb, for example, is served with a truffle-filled sauce Périgord, the duck breast with a griotte cherry sauce. During flower show week, the restaurant is open for lunch (three courses, $27.50, not including wine, tax or tip); at dinner, presenting flower show tickets will bring a credit of 100 francs ($18) a table. Dinner for two with wine, about $240, with tax and tip. Striped Bass, 1500 Walnut Street, (215) 732-4444, a centerpiece of Walnut Street's restaurant row, is entirely seafood, starting with the raw bar and Petrossian caviar selection. Dinner for two with wine, about $200, including tax and tip; lunch, $70. Fork, 306 Market Street, (215) 625-9425, is one of several well-appointed new restaurants in Old City. At this softly lighted brasserie, the menu changes nightly, offering a mix of seafood, lamb chops and steak, duck and chicken, with beautiful side dishes like creamed Brussels sprouts and roasted butternut squash. Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip: about $90. Monk's Cafe, 264 South 16th Street, (215) 545-7005, a Belgian bistro, is all dark wood and dim lights. Sandwiches (a favorite is chicken and apple sausage) start at $5.75. Understandably popular are the mussels ($8.95 for a sizable bowl, $14.95 for a giant bowl), accompanied by skinny pommes frites. The exhaustive selection of Belgian beers includes a dozen on tap in the back bar. A meal for two with beer, tax and tip: about $50. No reservations. Chinatown, which all but surrounds the Convention Center, has scores of restaurants. One small, unimposing place -- lace curtains, 10 tables, bring your own beer or wine -- with an impressive kitchen is Shiao Lan Kung, 930 Race Street, (215) 928-0282. The salt-baked squid and the beef dishes are good choices. Open until 3 A.M. Dinner for two with tax and tip: about $25. The Reading Terminal Market, at 12th and Filbert Streets, has almost anything to go -- cheesesteaks and sumptuous roast pork sandwiches, Chinese and Lebanese food, soul food and trendy food -- in the neighborhood of $5. Seating is at tables in the center of the market or in the Beer Garden. The market is closed at night and on Sunday, but its sit-down restaurant, the Down Home Diner, is open until 9 nightly except Sunday. It is Southern (try the sweet potato chips), generous (the mashed potatoes) and usually costs about $25 for dinner for two.

EATING: Since the widely publicized restaurant renaissance of the 1970s, this culturally and ethnically diverse city has offered restaurants for every taste and pocketbook. (Six or seven Philly eateries are almost always listed in polls of the nation's best restaurants.) The most recent area of restaurant development is in the funky Old City neighborhood. Another popular area is the Rittenhouse Square District, which is blessed with an abundance of fine restaurants. South Philadelphia, where most of the city's huge Italian population resides, abounds with great Italian restaurants (and is the source of the original Philadelphia cheesesteak). Chinatown has three to five Asian restaurants per block -- Thai and Vietnamese, as well as Chinese. The neighborhood around the Italian Market has also given rise to a crop of Asian restaurants, between 9th and 11th on Washington Avenue. Around the University of Pennsylvania there's another wealth of ethnic establishments (Indian, Thai, Mexican, Japanese). Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than $10; $$ = $10-$20; $$$ = $21-$50; and $$$$ = more than $50.

BEST IN TOWN: Le Bec-Fin - Nearly every culinary award has been given to this superior French restaurant and its chef/owner, Georges Perrier. Menus change seasonally; they might include saddle of rabbit stuffed with tomatoes and olives, or filet of veal with wild morels. The ornate dining room boasts crystal chandeliers. Reservations must be made two to three weeks in advance; you'll be advised of two seatings for both lunch Monday-Friday and dinner Monday-Saturday; closed Sundays. Lunch and dinner are prix fixe -- lunch for one $36, dinner $118, excluding drinks, tax and tip. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1523 Walnut St., phone 215-567-1000.

Le Bar Lyonnais - Downstairs at the same address as Le Bec-Fin, classic bistro-style French cuisine in a less formal setting. No reservations. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1523 Walnut St., phone 215-567-1000.

Deux Cheminees - "Two Fireplaces," classic French restaurant in two adjoining town houses (formerly the Princeton Club) with blazing fireplaces in all rooms during the chilly season. Owner and chef de cuisine Fritz Blank visits each table to answer questions and hear suggestions. Signature dish is Veloute Crab Marguerite, a cream-based hot crab soup, laced with Scotch whiskey. In season, the venison steaks are prized. Open Tuesday-Saturday from 5:30 p.m. until about 9 p.m. Reservations imperative. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1221 Locust St., phone 215-790-0200.

Opus 25 - Tucked into the Art Alliance on stylish Rittenhouse Square. Alfonso Contrisciani, one of the youngest of the 54 master chefs in the U.S., prepares a mix of Mediterranean and Asian-influenced dishes, emphasizing regional seasonal ingredients. The bouillabaisse is a specialty. A sophisticated and elegant place, with an outdoor garden. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Monday-Thursday 5-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5-11 p.m.; Sunday 5-8:30 p.m.; brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.-2 p.m. $$$. Most major credit cards. 251 S. 18th St., 215-735-6787.

Where to Eat. The thoroughly opulent Deux Cheminées, 1221 Locust Street, (215) 790-0200, formal in both its French cooking and its

Philadelphian reserve, occupies two 19th-cen town houses designed by Frank Furness. It's impossible to think light here; the rack of lamb, for example, is served with a truffle-filled sauce Périgord, the duck breast with a griotte cherry sauce. During flower show week, the rest is open for lunch (three courses, $27.50, not including wine, tax or tip); at dinner, presenting flower show tickets will bring a credit of 100 francs ($18) a table. Dinner for two with wine, about $240, with tax and tip.

Striped Bass, 1500 Walnut Street, (215) 732-4444, a centerpiece of Walnut St's rest row, is entirely seafood, starting with the raw bar and Petrossian caviar selection. Dinner for two with wine, about $200, including tax and tip; lunch, $70.

Fork, 306 Market Street, (215) 625-9425, is one of several well-appointed new rests in Old City. At this softly lighted brasserie, the menu changss nightly, offering a mix of seafood, lamb chops and steak, duck and chicken, with beautiful side dishes like creamed Brussels sprouts and roasted butternut squash. Dinner for two with wine, tax and tip: about $90.

Belgian bistro, is all dark wood and dim lights. Sandwiches (a favorite is chicken and apple sausage) start at $5.75. Understandably popular are the mussels ($8.95 for a sizable bowl, $14.95 for a giant bowl), accompanied by skinny pommes frites.

\3 San Francisco

Embarcadero center, five bldgs. Fisherman's Wharf/Pier 39. Discount outlets: 660 3rd St. Chinatown/North Bch: Grant Ave/Stockton St. at Colubus Japantown and Japan Ctr: Union Square and Marina district. Sonoma: E of 101 and W of Napa. Rt 12 runs thru. Cable cars are the only mobile national monuments. See BAY CITY GUIDE and SAN FRANCISCO KEY city guides. Mon Kiang, Hakka Cuisine, 633 Bway/Stockton.

HOSTELLING INTL SFO (Union Square), CA - Downtown A block from the excitement of Union Square, in the theater district, this hostel (formerly the Hotel Virginia) provides double and triple rooms. In most cases, two rooms share a bath. Right outside the front door is a variety of restaurants, shops, and art galleries. Union Square is a great place to people-watch or enjoy a picnic under the palm trees. Just two blocks away at Powell and Market Streets are the world-famous cable cars, which will give you a breathtaking ride to Fisherman's Wharf and the Bay. You'll also find public transportation here to most areas of the city.

Price: $19-21 U.S. Access Hours: 24 hours Beds: 258 Private Rooms: 92 Facilities: kitchen, meeting room, storage, lockers, internet Res Essential: Jul-Oct; advisable Nov-Jun; accepted by Mail/Phone/Fax/IBN with credit card Intl Bkng Network Credit Cards: MasterCard, Visa, JCB Mgrs: Mike Reed, Sean Beaudoin Adrs: 312 Mason St/Sutter, SFO CA 94102 Phone: 415-788-5604

Email:sfdowntown@norcalhostels.org Web:www.norcalhostels.org Directions: downtown on Mason St., between Geary and O'Farrell. From U.S. Hwy. 101 (Van Ness): east on Post St. 7 blocks, right on Mason, hostel is 1 block south (see large "Hotel Virginia" sign). Airport: take "Lorrie" shuttle van (415-334-9000) to hostel or catch SAM-TRANS bus #7B or #7F on upper level in front of Delta or United Airlines. Get off at 5th and Mission, walk 5 blocks north to O'Farrell, 1/2 block west to Mason. Bus: From Ferry Building, take MUNI #2 bus to Sutter and Mason, walk 3 blocks south.

SFO (Ft. Mason), CA - Fisherman's Wharf Cable cars climbing steep hills through swirling fog and sparkling sun and the famous Golden Gate Bridge make San Francisco one of America's most intriguing and popular destinations. Hostelling International-San Francisco-Fisherman's Wharf is located at Fort Mason in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, an urban national park on the Bay. Fort Mason is also home to museums, galleries, and theaters. The nearby Bikecentennial route makes this hostel a perfect stop for cyclists. Fisherman's Wharf, Chinatown, and Ghirardelli Square are all within walking distance.

Price: $19-21 U.S. + tax Closed Dates: never Office Hours: 24 hours Access Hours: 24 hours Beds: 170 Private Rooms: 0 Facilities: kitchen, storage, lockers, laundry, wheelchair accessible, internet, meals Reservations advisable: accepted by Mail/Phone/Fax/Email/IBN with credit card Intl Bkng Net Credit Cards: JCB, MasterCard, Visa

Managers: Jeanne Comaskey, Simon Watson, Rick Young Adrs: Fort Mason, Bldg 240, SFO, CA 94123 415-771-7277 Email:sfhostel@dnai.com Web:www.norcalhostels.org Directions: 2 mi north of downtown. Bus, Train: take MUNI bus #42 from Trans Bay Terminal to Bay and Van Ness, walk 1 block west to Franklin and Ft. Mason entrance, follow signs to hostel. Airport: take shuttle vans to hostel.

What's Doing in San Francisco By FRANK BRUNI August 9, 1998

At Fisherman's Wharf, San Francisco's tourist-mobbed carnival of street music and other bayside attractions, there is sometimes a small, enterprising clutch of young people beside a sign that reads "Photos With Freaks." Hair jaggedly spiked, bodies mummified in black leather, they play to outsiders' expectations of this city as one of the country's most eccentric outposts.

But they also provide an apt metaphor for a place that is well aware of the fascination it exerts over visitors, knows how to sell itself and is doing so as successfully as ever these days. The good times around the country are particularly evident in San Francisco and its environs, where there's a hum of activity, a show of wealth and an expansiveness of spirit from the Sonoma to Silicon valley. In the city itself, restaurants are hopping, hotels are brimming and tourism is running strong, with more than 11 million visitors expected by the end of the year. Right now is the high season, and for good reason: while the rest of the country wilts in 80-, 90- and 100-degree heat, San Francisco unfurls days in the high 60's and 70's and nights brisk enough to merit a light jacket. It's perfect weather for walking, and in that regard San Francisco gives you steep challenges capped by lofty rewards. The views are everywhere, and they're splendid, except when the fog rolls in. But even fog seems like a part of the city's wily charms, a little game of hide-and-seek, a meteorological striptease. From its fancifully detailed Victorians to its pesky tendency toward tremors, San Francisco is always putting on a show. Events hrough Sept. 8, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, 151 Third Street, (415) 357-4000. features "Keith Haring," with more than 100 paintings, drawings and doodles from Haring's student days up until his AIDS-related death in 1990 at the age of 31. And just before that exhibition leaves, the museum ushers in "Alexander Calder: 1898-1976," with about 200 of his creations, including mobiles and sculptures, from Sept. 4 until Dec. 1. The museum is open daily except Wednesday from 10 A.M. until 6 P.M. and until 9 on Thursday. Admission is $8, with discounts for seniors and students. The first Tuesday of each month is free. The San Francisco Shakespeare Festival, (415) 422-2222, presents "A Midsummer Night's Dream" in the Liberty Meadow of Golden Gate Park every Saturday and Sunday, plus Labor Day, from Sept. 5 through Oct. 4. Admission is free and seating is unlimited, though latecomers may not get close enough to see much. The weekend of Sept. 12 and 13 features two special events for food lovers. On Sept. 12, Ghirardelli Square stages its annual chocolate festival, bittersweet, dark and milky opportunities for gluttony. There's a sundae-eating contest, chocolate sculpting and activities for kids. Each $5 sampling ticket is worth five dessert samples. From noon to 5 P.M., 900 North Point, (415) 775-5500. For more balanced nutrition before or after, the Festival of the Culinary Arts, on Sept. 12 and 13, features five blocks of food stalls fanning out from the intersection of Polk and Turk Streets. There's no charge for looking, and prices are reasonable. From 10 A.M. to 6 P.M.; (800) 229-2433, extension 229. The ever popular San Francisco Blues Festival takes place Sept. 19 and 20 with performers like Mavis Staples, the Mississippi Delta Blues Caravan and Taj Mahal. For information and tickets ($20 in advance), call (800) 225-2277 or (510) 762-2277. Tickets are $25 at the gate at the Great Meadow, Fort Mason. On Sept. 19, the San Francisco Opera presents the world premiere of André Previn's first opera, "A Streetcar Named Desire." Mr. Previn will conduct the first four of eight performances, till Oct. 11. Tickets are $100 to $1,500 for opening night, $22 to $145 for later performances. The box office, (415) 864-3330, is open Monday through Friday, 10 A.M. to 6 P.M., through Saturday after Aug. 17. Sightseeing lmost every big city has its designated aerie, but San Francisco, with its dramatic topography, provides a particularly compelling attraction. Coit Tower, atop Telegraph Hill, affords a 360-degree survey of the area that's a great, quick, place-fixing orientation. The elevator ride to the top costs $3, $2 for seniors and $1 for children, and it operates from 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. daily. 1 Telegraph Hill Boulevard, (415) 362-0808. Another great way to see and linger over San Francisco's physical beauty is on the seat of a bicycle. Blazing Saddles, at Pier 41 of Fisherman's Wharf, (415) 202-1973, rents dependable, high-quality mountain bicycles for $5 an hour or $25 a day. You will need reservations for weekend days, and a credit card for the deposit. Then pack the bicycle onto a ferry to Angel Island State Park, a less heralded neighbor to Alcatraz that has a similarly breathtaking situation in the middle of the bay but also provides plenty of nature for biking, strolling or picnicking. For information about the 40-minute ferry ride, call (415) 773-1188; the round trip, including admission to Angel Island, is just $10 for an adult. As an alternative, ride the bicycle over the Golden Gate Bridge, park at the entrance to the Marin Headlands and hike over hills to the ocean: all doable in a long, glorious day. The people at Blazing Saddles will give you directions and rent you a lock for the bicycle. A less aerobic way to marvel at the glory and setting of the Golden Gate is through a visit to Fort Point National Historic Site, under the south anchorage. The fort was built in the mid-1800's as a sentry against sea attacks during the Civil War, but is now a museum with free admission. Open Wednesday through Sunday, 10 A.M. to 5 P.M., (415) 556-1693. But enough of the great outdoors. San Francisco is almost as famous for its architecture, and the most widely recognized example, reproduced endlessly in photographs and movie frames, is the row of brightly colored, beautifully detailed Queen Anne Victorians on the 700 block of Steiner Street. It's an undeniable charge to see them in the flesh -- or, rather, in the shingle. Where to Stay tterly charming and in a quieter area than Union Square or the Financial District, the 57-room Hotel Majestic, 1500 Sutter Street, (800) 869-8966, fax (415) 673-7331, was built around the turn of the century and has maintained that sense of history and atmosphere while keeping its prices extremely reasonable. A recent renovation made a good thing even better. Doubles are $150. Some of the same qualities distinguish the Harbor Court, 165 Steuart Street, (800) 346-0555, fax (415) 882-1313, where coziness, an attractive location and full access to the Y.M.C.A. make up for the modest size of many of its 131 rooms. The standard rate for a double in August and September is $195, but ask about packages, specials or upgrades. Budget: The brand-new Hotel Del Sol, 3100 Webster Street, (877) 433-5765, fax (415) 931-4137, is a daring and flamboyant remodel of a once-frumpy 1950's motor lodge in the Marina District, painted in Day-Glo yellow and royal blue and brimming with campy tropical flourishes. Its owner envisioned it as "Martha Stewart goes to Venice Beach," and it looks as if Martha traveled there by way of Oz. The 57 rooms are festive and spacious for the price. Doubles are $119 during the present high season and parking is free, a rarity in this crowded city. The Grant Plaza Hotel, 465 Grant Avenue, (800) 472-6899, fax (415) 434-3886, has a funky location in the heart of Chinatown and amazing rates. Most of the 72 rooms are small and unadorned, but each has a private bathroom, and the hotel is clean, safe and centrally situated. Doubles range from $65 to $85 depending on the size and configuration of beds. Luxury: The Mandarin Oriental, 222 Sansome Street, (800) 622-0404, fax (415) 433-0289, occupies the upper 11 stories, from the 38th to the 48th floors, of San Francisco's third-tallest skyscraper and invites guests to take full advantage of the unbeatable views by putting a pair of high-grade binoculars in each room. The fitness center has artwork on loan from the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, and every aerobic machine is connected to its own television set. The 158 rooms, in various shapes and sizes, start at $325 but generally go much, much higher. For a more intimate, romantic experience, the Sherman House, 2160 Green Street, (800) 424-5777, fax (415) 563-1882, is tucked away on a quiet street in the lovely residential area of Pacific Heights. It has just 14 rooms with feather bedding and wood-burning fireplaces in what feels like a bed-and-breakfast lifted to its most sublime, elegant possibilities. Every room is different, starting at $310 for the one room without a fireplace and going up to $775 for a suite with an expansive patio.

Where to Eat menu that pleasantly captures the best of California cuisine, with fresh vegetables and subtle Asian flourishes applied to beautifully prepared lamb, tuna and beef, can be found at Hawthorne Lane, 22 Hawthorne Lane, (415) 777-9779, which also boasts one of the prettiest entrances and interiors in the city. Dinner for two could easily run more than $100. Black Cat, 501 Broadway, (415) 981-2233, is an intriguing newcomer to North Beach that offers eclectic fare, from steak to Chinese-style fried rice, in a sleek but no-fuss, bistro-style setting where the kitchen stays open past midnight. Black Cat has an extensive selection of oysters, shellfish and chilled seafood; a moist, crunchy whole roasted chicken for two; and a caramel tart that's an unmitigated slice of heaven (or, if you're a dieter, hell). Dinner for two with wine averages $80. San Francisco's famously innovative Asian cuisine can be found at the Slanted Door, 584 Valencia Street, (415) 861-8032, which channels its Vietnamese muse in immensely satisfying ways. The menu changes weekly; the grapefruit and jicama salad, bejeweled with candied pecans, is an unlikely standout, along with the caramelized shrimp doused in a rich pepper sauce. The noisy, hip atmosphere befits the restaurant's Mission District neighborhood. Dinner for two with appetizers and modest wine runs anywhere from $45 to $85. Make reservations far in advance. You can create your own appetizer, entree or dessert crepes, or accept one of innumerable suggestions on the menu, at Ti Couz, 3108 16th Street, (415) 252-7373. It's a crepe-apalooza where you can order as you go, creating as small or as large a meal as you want, and wind up spending less than $40 for dinner for two, including Ti Couz's famous hard ciders or wine. Customizing food to your own specifications is also an option at Mo's, 1322 Grant Avenue, (415) 788-3779, an extremely casual, small haunt in North Beach that makes terrific hamburgers and will dress them up with a variety of cheeses, apple-smoked bacon or caramelized onions: the choice is yours. But when the beef's this good, you might as well leave it naked. Dinner or lunch for two averages $25.

INTRODUCTION You plan a trip to San Francisco with certain expectations: cable cars, Chinatown, North Beach, pastel Victorian homes fronting steep, lawnless streets. But what's surprising about arriving in San Francisco is that it's all so unfamiliar. The bell of the cable car sounds different when you're actually onboard, rounding a corner that goes both abruptly up and sharply to the left. The bell rises above the ratcheting of the cable and the babel of languages, as distinct amid the clamor as a foghorn floating through the early morning mist. In photos, the hills of San Francisco merely provide its setting; in person, there's nothing ordinary about this roller-coaster landscape, its lively residents and abundant attractions. HISTORY For a relatively young community, San Francisco has a rich history. The San Francisco Bay Area was originally inhabited by the Miwok and Ohlone Indians, but after Spanish explorers arrived in 1775, the Indians were almost wiped out by disease and mistreatment. The Spanish themselves were forced out in 1846, when U.S. forces captured San Francisco during the Spanish-American War. Just two years later, a miner named Sam Brannan discovered gold around the American River. His find made him the first millionaire in California and set off the largest peacetime migration in U.S. history. The populatoon leaped from 500 to 25,000 in one year, as people from all over the world rushed to San Francisco. San Francisco grew from a collection of tents to a world-class city and seaport, a place where the new gold and railroad barons of the era could enjoy the finer things in life. (San Francisco also became known for its many brothels, saloons and opium dens.) In 1906, an immense earthquake struck, resulting in a fire that raged for three days. Some 400 people were killed and half of San Francisco was destroyed. The city rebuilt itself quickly -much of the architecture you see today dates from that era. (City fathers, however, thwarted plans to rebuild the red-light district.) San Francisco was a major staging area during World War II, and the burgeoning shipbuilding industry attracted many African Americans looking for work. During the 1950s, the Beats -Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg, Lawrence Ferlinghetti and others -created a subculture of poets and writers in the North Beach neighborhood. Their music was jazz. Through it, the beatniks tried to breach the wall that separated black and white. When North Beach rents went up in the 1960s, many bohemians moved to the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood, and San Francisco became the birthplace of the hippie movement. And in the 1970s and 80s, the Castro district became a mecca for gay people from all over the world. Despite another major earthquake in 1989, San Francisco's economy has prospered in recent years. It's said that there are more World Wide Web design and multimedia firms per square foot in the South of Market area than anywhere else on Earth. Tourism is San Francisco's No. 1 industry, and the city has a thriving convention business that keeps its hotels and restaurants packed throughout the year. The city now operates under the aegis of Willie Brown, a flamboyant and confrontational African-American mayor -pick up one of the local newspapers and you'll be sure to find some lively commentary about the latest Willie controversy. GEOGRAPHY Perched on the northern tip of a peninsula, San Francisco is surrounded on three sides by water -to the west by the Pacific Ocean; to the east by San Francisco Bay, with Berkeley and Oakland on the far shore (East Bay); and to the north by the narrow mouth of the bay, spanned by the Golden Gate Bridge, which leads to Marin County. Forty-nine hills stud the City (as San Franciscans call it), accounting for the bounty of breathtaking views. It's a city of neighborhoods, each with its distinct character and attractions. Some of the most visited are Union Square, the Financial District, SoMa (the area south of Market Street), the Embarcadero, Chinatown, North Beach and Fisherman's Wharf, all clustered in the northeast corner of town. Others well worth visiting are Japantow,, the Castro (the symbolic center of the gay community), the Marina and Haight-Ashbury, which adjoins the eastern tip of Golden Gate Park. The park itself stretches westward to the Pacific Ocean, dividing two large residential neighborhoods, Richmond to the north and Sunset to the south.

NIGHTLIFE A zesty style has been a hallmark of San Francisco's character since the Gold Rush and Barbary Coast days. Nightlife in the city today offers something for every taste, from quiet piano bars on Nob Hill to trendy SoMa hot spots to colorful saloons downtown and in North Beach. The San Francisco Chronicle's Datebook -the pink section of the Sunday newspaper -is a good source for current nightlife.

BARS, TAVERNS AND PUBS 15 RomoloThis North Beach favorite is frequented by a hipster crowd attracted to the bar's slick interiors and eclectic, tres-cool jukebox selection, including such artists as Bowie, Beastie Boys and Massive Attack. 15 Romolo (off Columbus), phone 415-398-1359.

Buena Vista -Located on Fisherman's Wharf across the street from the Hyde Street cable-car stop, this establishment takes credit for originating Irish coffee. Full bar. Daily until 2 am. No credit cards. 2765 Hyde St., phone 415-474-5044.

Toronado -Though it looks a little bit like hell -dark and cavelike -beer connoisseurs will be in heaven when they discover the 50 beers on tap (the assortment changes regularly). Try a good West Coast pale ale, Belgian Tripel or tangy Hefeweizen. 547 Haight (at Fillmore), phone 415-863-2276.

Tosca's -A North Beach institution, a favorite for visiting celebrities, socialites and an assortment of creative people. Full bar. A traditional drink is their "white nun" -steamed milk and coffee with kahlua. Daily 5 pm-2 am. Most major credit cards. 242 Columbus Ave., phone 415-391-1244.

Vesuvio is just across Jack Kerouac Alley from City Lights Books, this bar is a rich piece of North Beach history. It's the perfect place for downing a pint or two while soaking up a "beat" atmosphere. A seat upstairs along windows facing Columbus Avenue is ideal for viewing the lively activity below. Open daily 6 am-2 am. 255 Columbus Ave. (at Broadway), phone 415-362-3370.


\4 All San Francisco Restaurants

Swans (Rest) California/Polk. Mon-Sat 8:00am- 5:30pm Oysters about $14.00 per dozen

This is where die-hard SFO shellfish fans gleefully slurp down fresh bluepoint oysters, cherrystone clams and hearty Boston clam chowder between swigs of Anchor Steam beer. It's a one-of-a-kind SFO experience, and fortunately for the locals, it's the type of place tourists tend to walk past.

The Scene: You won't find white linen tablecloths at this oyster bar: In fact, you won't even find any tables. Since 1912, patrons have balanced themselves on the 19 hard, rickety stools lining the long, narrow marble counter cluttered with bowls of oyster crackers, fresh-cut lemons, napkin holders, Tabasco sauce and other seasonings.

Food Preparation as Entertainment. As you eat, a quick shucking team of some of the most congenial people in town work on the opposite side of the counter. They're the Sancimino brothers, recently recognized with the prestigious James Beard Award for classic regional rests.

The Food Along with the bivalves, lunch specialties are sizable salads—crab, shrimp, prawn and combo—seafood cocktails, lobster and either half or whole cracked Dungeness crabs. If you want to pick up some fish for supper, take a gander at all the fresh offerings in the display case: salmon, swordfish, delta crawfish, lingcod and whatever else the boat brought in that day. Content provided by SFO Sidewalk.

In this sampler of San Francisco' s rich restaurant scene, those reviewed are grouped by category, not by location or cost, so you can choose the experience to fit your mood. You may be ready to splurge; sample bistro fare; try Italian, French, or other ethnic spots; or combine shopping and play-going around Union Square with good food. We estimate the cost of a single dinner consisting of an appetizer (or dessert), entree, and alcoholic beverage, without tip or tax. An inexpensive meal costs under $15 ($); moderate, from $16-$30 ($$); expensive, $31-$50 ($$$); very expensive, $51-plus ($$$$).

Where the in-crowd eats Bruno's, 2389 Mission St. (between 19th & 20th Sts.); 415-550-7455. Dinner (Tues.-Sun.). MC,V. $$. Originally opened in the 1940s, Bruno's was immensely popular with San Francisco's politicians and others enjoying Italian American classics. Bruno's remains popular now for its trendy California-Mediterranean food, the 1950s supper club look of the red Naugahyde booths, and the jazz in the lounge. Try grilled asparagus, red wine braised oxtails, and warm Granny Smith apple crisp. Be prepared for some attitude from the staff. (Mission)

42 Degrees, 235 16th St. (at San Francisco Bay); 415-777-5558. Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (Wed. Sat). MC,V. $$. Located in a warehouse-sized space next to the Esprit factory store, 42 Degrees is as far as you can go without falling into the bay. The restaurant has a curving metal staircase and a wall of windows facing the patio that rolls up in good weather. Dinner starts late and attracts the black-clad young and restless, who come to eat the hearty plates of roasted lamb chops and risotto with asparagus and pine nuts, and listen to the jazz. Don't pass up the chocolate pot de creme. Blackboard specials can be enjoyed at the bar. (Way South of Market)

Mecca, 2029 Market St. (between Dolores & Church Sts.); 415-621-7000. Dinner (Mon.-Sat.). MC,V, AE. $$. A diverse crowd sips grown-up cocktails at the immense circular bar that dominates this stylish, neon-lit supper club serving Mediterranean-inspired dishes. The room pulsates with salsa and rhythm and blues. The bar is surrounded by a variety of dining areas, including a cafe, for those without a reservation. Late at night the menu provides "Platters to Share," (oysters, mussels, a cheese platter) and pizza. (Castro)

Moose's, 1652 Stockton St. (between Union & Filbert Sts.); 415-989-7800. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch (Sun.). MC, V, DC, AE. $$$. Moose's belongs to Ed Moose, who provides a home-away-from-home for the city's politicaans and sports and media elite. Moose's has a lively bar, jazz piano in the evening, an open kitchen and huge glass windows overlooking Washington Square Park. The diverse menu recently included foie gras and spring vegetables; baked lasagna with lobster, shrimp and mushrooms; and beef cheeks in Burgundy (North Beach)

PlumpJack Cafe, 3127 Fillmore St. (between Filbert & Greenwich Sts.); 415-563-4755. Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (Mon.-Sat.). MC,V, AE. $$$. PlumpJack, small and sophisticated in beige, gray, and silver, offers the best wine prices in the city, maybe the nation. The restaurant is an offshoot of a wine shop started by Gordon Getty's sons Andrew and Billy, and a family friend, Gavin Newsom, currently a member of the city's Board of Supervisors. The lunch and dinner menus feature a brief, eclectic assortment of well-executed Cal-Med dishes. Duck confit preceded by grilled asparagus salad would be a good choice. (Union St./Cow Hollow)

Rose Pistola, 532 Columbus Ave. (between Union & Green Sts.); 415-399-0499. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V, AE. $$. This stylish joint, run by chef/owner Reed Hearon, is jumpin' with folks attracted as much by the ambiance and late-night hours as the food. There is live music after 9 p.m. Rose Pistola occupies a block-long room, with well-defined seating areas, including a bar, and counter-seating near the busy wood-burning ovens. The food is Ligurian/Genoese, which means lots of seafood, liberally doused in olive oil, lemon, and garlic. There are tapas for late eaters. (North Beach) Shows & shopping

Anjou, 44 Campton Place (at Stockton St.); 415-392-5373. Lunch, dinner (Tues.-Sat.). MC,V, DC, AE. $$. Very busy at lunch, this crowded but cordial and charming French restaurant serves slightly updated traditional dishes, of which the duck confit, sauteed calves' brains and tarte Tatin are especially recommended. Close your eyes and you might be back in Paris. (Union Square)

Emporio Armani Cafe, 1 Grant Ave. (at O'Farrell St.); 415-677-9010. Lunch (Mon.-Sun.). MC,V, DC, AE. $-$$. Housed in a former bank building, this upscale retail establishment serves aperitifs, wine, focaccia sandwiches, pizza, salads, grilled seafood, and meats from a horse-shoe-shaped bar right in the middle of the very expensive merchandise. Although both patrons and servers display a bit of attitude, there is no obligation to buy or wear Armani. White-jacketed servers bring drink and food to the sidewalk tables in nice weather. (Union Square)

Cafe Akimbo, 116 Maiden Lane (between Grant Ave. & Stockton St.); 415-433-2288. Lunch, dinner (Mon.-Sat.). MC,V, AE. $$. Sequestered on a quiet alley off Union Square, this serene restaurant is three floors up in a dowdy elevator. Here the fusion cuisine includes duck confit prepared with an apricot sauce and ginger-glazed carrots; tofu with the shrimp; macadamia nuts with the pasta; and steak sauced with sesame vinaigrette. (Union Square)

Christophe, 405 Mason St. (at Geary St.); 415-771-6393. Lunch (Tues-Sat.), Dinner. MC, V, DC, AE. $$. Christophe's location is prime: one floor up opposite the Geary and Curran theaters, with a bird's-eye view of Union Square foot traffic. The dining room is painted a soft pink and accented by Art Deco details and flower bouquets. The "Euro-American" cuisine comes in two "early bird" prix fixe dinner menus, one $19.95, the other $21.95. The a la carte menu includes crab and corn strudel, roasted duck with glazed pears, and marinated baby chicken. (Union Square)

Rumpus, 1 Tillman Place (between Sutter & Post Sts.); 415-421-2300. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V, DC, AE. $$. A difficult space has been adroitly redesigned to create a stylish American bistro that serves a mean Caesar salad, juicy roast chicken, an excellent veal chop, and tasty desserts such as a chocolate brioche pudding. The interesting wine lists merits close consideration, while an open kitchen close to counter seating adds to the fun. (Union Square)

Scala's Bistro, 432 Powell St. (in the Sir Francis Drake Hotel, between Post & Sutter Sts.); 415-395-8555. Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner. MC,V, AE. $$-$$$. This restaurant--it's both too big and too Italian to be a bistro--sports a tin ceiling and arts-and-crafts light fixtures. On two levels, with an open kitchen and counter seating, the space is cleverly broken up with booths and partitions. The room offers a definite but non-intrusive buzz of high energy. Scala's crispy calamari, great pasta, marvelous roast chicken, and scrumptious Boston cream pie are notable. (Union Square)

The splurge Alain Rondelli San Francisco Restaurant, 126 Clement St. (between 2d & 3d Aves.); 415-387-0408. Dinner (Tues.Sun.). MC,V. $$$$. Sophisticated olive greens and browns provide an appropriate background for the restrained creations that emerge from the kitchen. The mirror place mats and the presentation of cotton candy cones before dessert are the whims of a chef who sports with California/French cuisine. The six-, nine-, and 12-course tasting menus must be ordered for the table, and cost, respectively, $45, $65, and $85. A 20-course menu ($150) must be ordered in advance. There's an a la carte menu, too. (Inner Richmond)

Campton Place Restaurant, 340 Stockton St. (at Campton Place); 415-955-5555. Breakfast (Mon.-Sun.), Brunch (Sun.), Lunch (Mon.-Sat.), Dinner. MC,V, AE. $$$-$$$$. At this lovely, peaceful California/French restaurant in the Campton Place Hotel, you can eat the best (and priciest) breakfast in the city. A $32 prix fixe is available all day Sunday and until 7 p.m. on other days. The a la carte menu includes such dishes as warm oxtail and leek salad with mustard vinaigrette and braised beef short ribs with pureed potatoes and truffle sauce. There's a bar menu in the small bar off the dining room. Service is exemplary. (Union Square)

La Folie, 2316 Polk St. (between Union & Green Sts.); 415-776-5577. Dinner (Mon.-Sat.). MC,V, DC, AE. $$$$. Family-run La Folie looks like a French village restaurant, warm and cozy, but the caliber of the cuisine suggests more ambition. The flavorful and visually witty creations are presented in a variety of menu options, including a four-course vegetarian menu ($45), a "Discovery" menu ($59.50), and a la carte. Typical dishes are a crispy potato and leek galette, a roast of quail and squab (a signature dish), and a blanquette of sweetbreads and lobster. The atmosphere is relatively casual, but the service, cuisine, and prices make this is a serious restaurant. (Polk/Russian Hill) Bistros & ristorantes

Cafe Tiramisu, 28 Belden Place (between Bush & Pine Sts.); 415-421-7044. Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (Mon.-Sat.). MC,V, DC, AE. $$. Belden Place, a short downtown lane, has become crowded with rows of outdoor tables and umbrellas belonging to a clutch of restaurants, among them Cafe Tiramisu. It is decorated with faux Pompeiian frescoes and might well be a trattoria in Rome with friendly, flirtatious waiters and rustic food. You might choose ahi tuna carpaccio, a variety of pastas, braised osso bucco, or roasted salmon. Dessert is obvious. (Downtown)

Cassis Bistro, 2120 Greenwich St. (between Fillmore & Webster Sts.); 415-292-0770. Dinner (Tues.-Sat.) Cash only. $$. Cassis is tres French, tres petit, and tres bon. If you lived in the neighborhood, you'd be a regular. The braised rabbit with shallots and rosemary is a typical main course, to be proceeded perhaps by the onion tarte, and finished off with the tarte Tatin. The wine list carries a number of bottles in the $16 to $20 range. (Union St./Cow Hollow)

Chapeau!, 1408 Clement St. (between 15th & 16th Aves.); 415-750-9787. Dinner (Tues.-Sun.) MC,V, DC, AE. $$. Chapeau! is French slang for "Wow!" The front of the house staff are notably friendly and a complimentary demitasse of soup reinforces the welcoming atmosphere. Chapeau! offers several menus: three courses for $22, four for $27, five for $38, a vegetarian menu for $20, and a three-course early-bird for $20. (Outer Richmond)

Le Charm, 315 Fifth St. (between Folsom & Harrison Sts.); 415-546-6128. Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (Tues.-Sat.). MC,V, AE. $$. Le Charm is located in a particularly ugly, though not dangerous, section of 5th St. At lunch time, it can get frazzled, but dinner is charming, especially with the bargain three-course French dinner ($18). Among the dishes you might choose for dinner are onion soup, goat cheese and roasted pepper salad, beef Bourguignon, halibut and tomato confit, profiteroles, and chocolate mousse. The wine selection is good. There's a patio for fog-free nights. (South of Market)

L'Osteria del Forno, 519 Columbus Ave. (between Stockton & Greenwich Sts.); 415-982-1124. Lunch, Dinner (Mon., Wed.-Fri.). Cash only. $. The two women who run this hole-in-the-wall, which seats 25, produce some very good dishes, the best being the focaccia, which you can eat by the basketful or in a sandwich. Their oven also produces thin-crust pizza, and two roasts, one beef and the other pork simmered in milk. A few daily specials round out the menu. Service is continuous from lunch to late evening. (North Beach)

Ristorante Ideale, 1309 Grant Ave. (between Vallejo & Green Sts.); 415-391-4129. Dinner (Tues.-Sun.). MC,V, DC. $$. Ideale may not dazzle, but its simplicity, charm, and brief but well-executed menu fully satisfy. The pastas are notable, including the chef's pappardelle, which he sauces with wild boar and tomato, and the penne, sauced with tomato, house-made sausage, and baby peas. While you enjoy the food of Rome, the passing parade of busy upper Grant Avenue also entertains. (North Beach)

Socca, 5800 Geary Blvd. (at 22nd Ave.); 415-379-6720. Dinner (Tues.Sun.). MC,V, DC, AE. $$. Socca (named for the chick-pea cake served on the streets of Southern Provence) presents a brief menu, expanded by daily specials. A first course might be oxtail ravioli, the second braised lamb shank or poached Columbia River sturgeon. A warm chocolate cake might complete the meal. The wine list is wonderful. Formerly the site of a Mexican restaurant, the transition in decor hasn't worked completely, but the bar is authentically French. The back room is more comfortable than the front. (Outer Richmond) More ethnic flavors

Betelnut Penjiu We, 2030 Union St. (between Webster & Buchanan Sts.); 415-929-8855. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V, DC. $. Betelnut calls itself an Asian beer house (pejiu wu), serving pan-Asian street food, with fresh local ingredients and often-hot regional spices. Go with a reservation or you'll be crowded at the bar. Once seated, all is tranquil, and you can choose among such intriguing items as hot and sour lemon grass prawn soup, tamarind chicken with five-spice mustard dressing, and Korean charbroiled pork with scallion pepper sauce. (Union St./Cow Hollow) Eliza's Restaurant, 1457 18th St. (between Connecticut & Missouri Sts.); 415-648-9999. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V. $.

Eliza's is filled with art glass, orchids, and Matisse reproductions. Although the sign outside reads "Hunan and Mandarin," the inventive chef goes beyond simple variations. Good dishes are sizzling rice soup, celery salad, and sesame chicken. The bar offers counter service. Check out 18th St., the neighborhood's main commercial street, after eating; you can get ice cream at The Daily Scoop a few doors away. The original Eliza's is in the Civic Center. (Potrero Hill)

Helmand Restaurant, 430 Broadway (between Montgomery & Kearny Sts.); 415-362-0641. Lunch (Mon.-Fri.,), Dinner. MC,V, AE. $$. Helmand, located on raunchy lower Broadway, is a pretty Afghani restt with fresh flowers` on each table, soft lighting, and attentive service. Afghani cuisine has been influenced by Central Asia, India, and the Middle East. Lamb is a special, but be sure not to miss the aushak, Afghani ravioli, tender pasta pillows stuffed with leeks or pumpkin. Dessert might be frozen ricotta with pistachio and cardamom. The wine list is good. (North Beach)

Katia's Russian Tea Room, 600 5th Ave. (at Balboa St.); 415-668-9292. Lunch & Dinner (Tues.-Sun.). MC,V, DC, AE. $$. Katia's is a real restaurant, serving homestyle Russian favorites. The cozy room (only 11 tables) is warm and pleasant, with floor-to-ceiling windows and glass mirrors. The borscht is thick with beets and cabbage, and the blinis are great with salmon or caviar, but you might want to start with zakuski, an assortment of Russian hots d'oeuvres, and then consider pel'meni (Russian ravioli) or beef Stroganoff. Accordion music diverts during the long wait between courses. (Inner Richmond)

Straits Cafe, 3300 Geary Blvd. (at Parker Ave.); 415-668-1783. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V, DC, AE. $$. The interior of Straits resembles a street in Singapore, with columns transformed into palm trees, fake windows with shutters, and an interior sheet-metal roof. The cuisine is Nonya, a cross-ethnic blend of Indian, Malaysian, Chinese, Indian, and Burmese influences. You might start with stuffed pastry shells or lamb soup, and move on to a crispy chicken simmered in curry or grilled boneless trout wrapped in a banana leaf. Try sago pudding for desert. (Inner Richmond)

Suppenkuche, 601 Hayes St. (at Laguna St.); 415-252-9289. Brunch (Sat. Sun.), Dinner. MC,V, AE. $$. Situated in an emerging neighborhood, the "Soup Kitchen" could be your last stop after a window-shopping stroll down Hayes St., which has several funky and arty stores plus some cutting-edge clothiers. While the decor is typical of many German inns, the familiar dishes are less heavy. Be sure to start with the gemischter salat. Then consider potato pancakes, beef-pork meat-balls, Wienerschnitzel, and sauteed venison in red wine sauce. The tables are communal. (Hayes Valley)

YaYa Cuisine, 1220 9th Ave. (between Irving St. & Lincoln Way); 415-566-6966. Dinner (Tues.-Sat.). MC,V, AE. $$. YaYa Cuisine is the only restaurant in San Francisco serving Mesopotamian food. The owner-chef combines a Middle Eastern mix of flavors with a California spin. Crisp-skinned baby chicken is stuffed with rice and cashews and surrounded by vegetables and dried apricots. Ravioli, stuffed with dates and flavored with cinnamon and cardamom, is topped with Parmesan, walnuts, olive oil, and roasted red peppers. Cobalt-blue halogen lights hang over marble tables, an intricate mural graces a wall, and arches separate the dining areas. This is on the way back from the De Young Art Museum in Golden Gate Park. (Inner Sunset)

Zarzuela, 2000 Hyde St. (at Union St.); 415-346-0800. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V. $$. One minute a French bistro, the next a tapas restaurant, the only change in decoration the addition of some Spanish dinnerware on the walls. Windows look out on the cable cars at the intersection of Hyde and Union. Although Zarzuela has a full menu, including an excellent paella, crowds come for the tapas--27 listed hot and cold tapas, plus daily specials. Cold sherry is the best accompaniment. No reservations. (Russian Hill)

Neighborhood spots Ave 9, 1243 9th Ave. (between Lincoln Way & Irving St.); 415-664-6999. Lunch, Dinner, Brunch (Sun.). MC,V. $$. Avenue 9's serious lunch menu includes such dishes as Warm Spinach Salad w/Seared Prawns. Properly timed, the brunch will see you through the day. For dinner, don't miss the Grilled Salmon "Napoleon" Served with Pappadums, Crispy Capers & Lemon Beurre Blanc. The open kitchen is visible from the street and draws you into a narrow room with tables facing the counter seats. The back room is more sedate. (Inner Sunset)

Beach Chalet Restaurant & Brewery, 1000 Great Highway (at the Pacific Ocean); 415-386-VIEW. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V. $$. The Beach Chalet was recently restored after being closed some 16 years. The two-story Spanish Colonial Revival building, just seconds from the Pacific Ocean, was the last designed by architect Willis Polk, and it bears murals and decorations designed by Lucian Labault, under the aegis of the Works Progress Administration. The second floor restaurant serves hearty, basic pub food, such as smoked pork loin sandwiches and grilled salmon filet. Res are imperative for table-seating, though you can eat at the bar. The best views are during the day, especially just before sunset. (Outer Sunset)

Bistro Aix, 3340 Steiner St. (between Lombard & Chestnut Sts.); 415-202-0100. Lunch, Dinner MC,V, AE. $-$$. Bistro Aix looks like a French bistro, but its menu is California-eclectic. The big draw here is the bargain prix fixe ($9.95) served Sunday through Thursday. The three-course menu offers grilled sirloin, roast chicken, or pasta as entrees. If the weather is nice, the heated back patio is fun. The wine list needs work, though. This a good place to refuel after window-shopping on Chestnut Street. (Marina)

Blue Point, 2415 Clement St. (between 25th & 26th Aves.); 415-379-9726. Dinner (Tues.-Sat.). MC,V. $$. The decor is a pleasant combination of high-tech and warmth, with a touch of the nautical. The well-tailored, vaguely Mediterranean-influenced menu offers, among other choices, a fresh fish of the day, seafood-sauced pastas, and a grilled rib-eye. Desserts range from a platter of cheese and fruit to chocolate torte. (Outer Richmond)

Butterfield's, 202 Townsend St. (at Third St.); 415-281-9001. Lunch (Mon.-Fri.), Dinner (Mon.-Sat.). MC,V, DC, AE. $$ You enter chef/owner Stewart Butterfield Pringle's restaurant through the Third Street Station Bar. Butterfield's occupies the bar's balcony, and you can observe the bar patrons while you wait between courses. Butterfield's specialty is fresh fish (crab, lobster, and trout are kept in holding tanks), prepared in a straightforward fashion. There are some reasonably priced sandwiches. The decor, like the location, is a little funky, but Butterfield's is sparkling clean. (Way South of Market)

Firefly, 4288 24th St. (at Douglass St.); 415-821-7652. Dinner. MC,V, AE. $$. Furnished as if from grandmother's attic, this remains a serious restaurant, combining a professional kitchen and service with neighborhood friendliness. The space consists of two small rooms, an open kitchen, and counter seating. From the California-eclectic menu you might choose the shrimp and scallop potstickers to begin, followed by a rib-eye steak, topped off by shortcake for dessert. (Nor Valley)

Flying Saucer, 1000 Guerrero St. (at 22nd St.; 415-641-9955. Dinner (Tues.Sun.) MC,V, DC, AE. $$$. Flying Saucer's eccentric, junk shop decoration is more than matched by its kitchen, which serves huge portions with a dazzling array of garnishes. No wonder service backs up. This is driven by the personal vision of the chef, who mastered French culinary art and then began to experiment. Every six weeks the menu changes, but you might find a seafood empanada, duck confit with cabbage-peanut salad, and salmon with spicy shrimp bread pudding. Flying Saucer attracts a hip crowd. (Mission)

Harris' Restaurant, 2100 Van Ness Ave. (at Pacific Ave.); 415-673-1888. Dinner. MC,V, DC, AE. $$$. The martini here is served in an individual carafe, chilled in its own miniature ice bucket. The house specialty is the Harris Steak, a New York cut with the bone in. Prime rib, lamb chops, calves' liver, lobster, and a vegetarian dish are also on the menu. For dessert, have the pecan pie. The decor is sophisticated and clubby, the service attentive. (Polk/Russian Hill)

The Meetinghouse, 1701 Octavia St. (at Bush St.); 415-922-6733. Dinner (Wed.-Sun.) MC,V, AE. $$. This restaurant was once an apothecary, and old drawers still line the walls. The Quaker-like calm of the room (and name) support sophisticated American cuisine. From the basket of warm, flaky biscuits and toasted walnut bread to the last sip of wine, the decor, service, and food make a seamless whole. Do save room for dessert. (Pacific Heights)

Pauline's Pizza Pie, 260 Valencia St. (between 14th & Duboce Ave.); 415-552-2050. Dinner (Tues.-Sun.) MC,V. $-$$. Many consider the pizza here to be the best in San Francisco. Pauline's specializes in eccentric toppings for the thin, crisp crusts. The pesto pizza (garlic, pine nuts, and basil) is superb. Pauline's is a yuppie-type place, but cheap enough if several share a large pizza, salad, and the chocolate mousse. Wine by the glass starts at $3. (Mission)

The 10 Best Places To Dine Inexpensively 1. May Sun Rest, 1740 Fillmore St. (at Post); 415-567-7789. Lunch (Mo.-Fr.) Dinner (Mo.-Sa.). MC, V, AE. (Japantown) 2. Anthony's Seafood and Pasta, 1701 Powell St. (at Union); 415-391-4488. Dinner. MC,V, AE. (N.Bch) 3. China Sea Rest, 1441 Polk St. (bet California and Pine); 415-775-3679. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V, AE. (Nob Hill) 4. Cordon Bleu, 1574 California (at Polk); 415-673-5637 Lunch (Tu. Sa.), Dinner (Tu.-Su.): 'Cash only. (Polk St./Russian Hill). 5. Il Pollaio, 555 Columbus. (at Union); 415-362-7727. Lunch (Men. Sat.), Dinner (Mon.-Sat,). MC,V. (N.Bch) 6. Little Henry's, 955 Larkin St. (at Post); 776-1757. Lunch, Dinner. Cash only. (Polk St./Russian Hill) 7. Nippon Sushi, 314 Church/15th St.); no phone. Lunch (Mon.-Sat.), Dinner (Mon.- Sat.). Cash only. (Castro) 8. Nyala Cafe, 39-A Grove St/Larkin; 415-861-0788. Lunch, Dinner. MC, V, AE. (Civic Center) 9. Siam Cafe, 807 Geary/Hyde; 415-775-5821. Lunch (Mon.-Sat.), Dinner (Mon.-Sat.). Cash only. (Tenderloin) 10. Vietnam, 622 Broadway (at Grant); 415-788-7034, Lunch. Cash only. (North Beach)

The 10 Best Alfresco Lunch Places 1. Outdoor cafes at Embarcadero Center, near the foot of Market Street between Clay and Sacramento. (Downtown)

2. Ale Garden Cafe, The Cannery Courtyard, 2801 Leavenworth (at Columbus); 415-928-4340. Lunch. (N.Bch)

3. City Picnic, 384 Hayes St. (at Franklin); 415-431-8814. Lunch (Mon.-Sat). Cash only. (Hayes Valley)

4. Enrico's, 504 Broadway (near Columbus and Grant); 415-982-6223. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V, AE. (North Beach)

5. Figeruoa Restaurante Cucina Italiana, 414 Columbus Ave. (at Vallejo); 415-398-1300. Brunch, Lunch, Dinner. MC,V, AE. (North Beach)

6. Jelly's A Dance Cafe, 295 China Basin Way (at Pier 50); 415-495-3099. Lunch. MC,V. (Way South of Market)

7. MacArthur Park, 607 Front St. (at # Jackson); 398-5700. Lunch, Dinner. MC,V, AE. (Downtown)

8. Mission Rock Resort, 817 China Basin (at Mariposa); 415-621-5538. Lunch. MC,V, AE. (Way South of Market)

9. Nosheria, 69 Maiden Lane (at Grant); 415-398-3557. Lunch (Mon.-Sat.). Cash only. (Union Square)

10. Suisse Italia Cafe, 101 California Plaza (California at Drumm); 415-362-4454, Lunch (Mon -Fri ) Cash only. (Downtown)

Asian cuisine is plentiful, varied, and reasonably priced in San Francisco. The restaurants below rate highly with SFPL staff.

DPD Restaurant, 901 Kearny St.; 415-982-0471. DPD is famed for its dumplings and Shanghai noodles. (Chinatown)

Fountain Court, 354 Clement St.; 415-668-1100. Among the Shanghai-inspired dishes are steamed buns and eggplant with basil. (Inner Richmond)

Hong Kong Flower Lounge, 5322 Geary Blvd.; 415-668-8998. This elegant space serves great Chinese seafood, including shark fin soup ($28). (Outer Richmond)

Emerald Garden, 1550 California St.; 415-673-1155. The French-influenced Vietnamese menu lists crepes, lemon grass seafood soup and Saigon-Style pork chops. (Polk St./Russian Hill)

Ton Kiang, 5821 Geary Blvd.; 415-386-8530; 3148 Geary Blvd., 415-752-4440. These Chinese siblings specialize in pungent, strongly flavored Hakka cuisine. The one at 5821 Geary is more, elegant, and also serves dim sum. (Outer Richmond; Presidio Heights)

Yuet Lee Seafood, 1300 Stockton St.; 415-982-6020. Great Cantonese seafood is served by brusque waiters under bright lights on Formica tabletops. Open late. By Glenda Goldwater, Mgr, Sunset Branch, SFO Public Library, first reviewed restaurants for LJ in 1975


\5 Frisco's VESUVIO Jazz saloon

A world renowned SFO saloon located in North Beach just across from the alley from the notable City Lights book store, was first established in 1948 and remains an historical monument to jazz, poetry, art and the good life of the Beat Generation. Vesuvio attracts a diverse clientele: artists, chess players, cab drivers, seamen and business people, European visitors, off-duty exotic dancers and bon vivants from all walks of life.

... On October 17, 1955, Neal Cassady, the real life Dean Moriarty of the quintessential Beat classic On the Road, stopped at Vesuvio on the way to the now legendary Six Gallery for a poetry reading, and the place has never been the same. It became a regular hangout of Jack Kerouac and other famous Beat poets and has become ground zero for pilgrims on the Beat trail ever since.

... It was here that Jack Kerouac once spent a long night in 1960 when he should have been on his way to Big Sur to meet with Henry Miller. Miller had written Kerouac that he enjoyed reading The Dharma Bums and would enjoy a visit from the emerging writer. Kerouac, however, had other plans. He continued to hoist drinks and called Miller every hour telling him that he was just a bit delayed in leaving the city. The two would never meet that night.

In 1951 Ferlinghetti settled in San Francisco, and in 1953 he opened the City Lights Pocket Book Shop, which quickly became a gathering place for the city's literary avant garde. In 1955 Ferlinghetti's new City Lights press published his verse collection Pictures of the Gone World, which was the first paperback volume of the Pocket Poets series. Allen Ginsberg's Howl and Other Poems (1956) was originally published as the fourth volume in the series. City Lights Books printed other works by Ginsberg as well as books by Jack Kerouac, Gregory Corso, Denise Levertov, William Burroughs, William Carlos Williams, and foreign authors.

Ferlinghetti's own lucid, good-natured, witty verse was written in a conversational style and was designed to be read aloud; it was popular in coffee houses and campus auditoriums and struck a responsive chord in disaffected youth. His collection A Coney Island of the Mind (1958), with its notable verse "Autobiography," became the largest-selling book by any living American poet in the second half of the 20th century. The long poem Tentative Description of a Dinner Given to Promote the Impeachment of President Eisenhower (1958) was also popular. Ferlinghetti's later poems continued to be politically oriented, as such titles as One Thousand Fearful Words for Fidel Castro (1961), Where Is Vietnam (1965), Tyrannus Nix? (1969), and Who Are We Now? (1976) suggest. A retrospective collection of his poems was published as Endless Life (1981).


\6 San Francisco street names

Making and Naming Of the Streets of SFO. by Samuel L. Lupton. Prior to the year 1835 the few ships that came into the bay of SFO usually anchored opp the Presidio at Black Point, at N.Point or at Sausalito. The latter was inconvenient and the anchorage of the others was unsafe. In consequence, vessels began to seek the shelter and better anchorage found off what was known as Yerba Buena Cove, and the shipmasters petitioned Governor Figueroa to set a port of entry there. This petition was favorably considered and as a result the town site of Yerba Buena, of which SFO is the successor, was laid out at the head of the cove in the latter part of Oct, 1835, by Francisco de Haro, an Alcade residing at the Mission Dolores.

He did so by marking upon the ground a simple street called La Calle de la Fundacion, or Foundation street. It started from a point near the present corner of Kearny and Pine streets and ran in a northeasterly direction toward North Beach, having Telegraph Hill at one end and sand hills at the other.

The place was then declared to be a port of entry, and Capt William A. Richardson, who had arrived in Calif in 1823, and had become a naturalized citizen of Mexico, was made capt of the port. He had been acting as agent of a couple of schooners that were carrying on a desultory trade up and down the sea coast. He made a rough sketch of the area, and having brought his family over from Sausalito, where he had long lived, made his home on the hillside near where Dupont street now is, between Clay and Washington streets. His house, being a combination of house and tent, was the first one located in the future city and he and his family were the first residents.

A year later, in 1836, the village contained in the neighborhood of thirty or forty houses, located in the sandhills around the present plaze.

In 1839, Governor Alvarado directed a survey to be made of the place, and Jose Castro, the prefect of the district, employed for that purpose Jean J. Vioget, who in November of that year surveyed and platted out the village of Yerba Buena, included between the present Broadway, Montgomery, Powell and California streets.

He did not, however, name any of the streets, nor did Richardson do so on his rough sketch.

On July 9th 1846, Commander John B. Montgomery, of the United States sloop of war Portsmouth, with seventy seamen and marines under command of Lieutenant Watson, took possession of the village and raised the US flag.

He appointed a naval officer, Lieutenant Washington A. Bartlett, Alcade of the place, the first under US auth. In Sept Bartlett was elected to the position which he held until Feb, 1847. This was not the Washington Bartlett who was later elected Governor of the State.

When Lt Bartlett ended his career as Alcade he resumed his position as an officer of the Navy and sailed away, never afterward to have any connection with the history of the city or State.

Bartlett, as Alcade, employed a civil engineer named Jasper O'Farrell, who in 1845 had been in the military service with Gen John A. Sutter, to enlarge the old Vioget survey of 1839. O'Farrell took the present corner of Kearny and Washington streets as his starting point and enlarged the survey as far as North Beach, and west as far as Taylor street. He laid out Market street as the future main thoroughfare, corresponding in direction with Mission street, the road to the Mission Dolores, which, on account of the prevailing sandhills and salt marsh, was the only road at that time leading out of the city. The survey south of Market street ran on Second and Third streets as far as South Beach, and on Market street as far as Fifth street, leaving out the swamps or marsh south and west of Mission and Fourth streets.

O'Farrell named all the streets embraced in his survey, and laid down on his map and numbered the fifty vara lots between Taylor and Post streets and the bay.

In the following year, 1847, by direction of Alcade Edwin Bryant, O'Farrell also laid off, surveyed and mapped the beach and water lot property lying between Montgomery and East streets, Telegraph Hill and Rincon Hill.

In the meantime, however, Alcade Bartlett by proclamation dated Jan 19, 1847, changed the name of the village of Yerba Buena  (meaning a good herb) to that of SFO, and by that name it was finally, on Apr 15, 1850, chartered as a city by the State Legislature, the boundaries thereof being Webster and Sixteenth streets and the bay.

An Ayuntamiento, or Town Council, with power to frame municipal laws and to appoint necessary town officers, was established Aug 1847, by order of Governor Mason.

In Dec 1849, Sansome street was opened to Bush street, Bush to Market, and First to Folsom, $5000 toward the purpose being raised by private subscription.

At the time the US forces took possession of Yerba Buena, in 1846, there were about 300 inhabitants scattered about the sandhills. Small settlements had for a long time prior existed at the Mission Dolores and at the Presidio, but they formed no part of the village of Yerba Buena. They did not fully become a part of SFO until 1856, when the act of the Legislature consolidating the city and county went into operation. In Feb 1849, the pop of SFO was estimated at 2000. It rapidly increased thereafter.

Early in 1850 William M. Eddy was elected City Surveyor by the Ayuntamiento, or Town Council, and directed to complete the survey of SFO. He completed the survey of the city between Larkin and Ninth streets and the bay, and mapped the fifty-vara and 100-vara lots not platted by O'Farrell. At this time many people thought, on the account of the prevailing high hills and the valleys, that the streets north of Market street should have been laid out in terraces around the hills instead of at right angles as they exist at present, believing it to be impossible to establish grades as they are now.

No effort had ever been made to improve the streets laid down on the maps up to the winter of 1849-50, when their condition was so bad that even horses could not safely pass over parts of the most used of them.

A movement was therefore made for their improvement in the spring of 1850, and a few of them were graded and planked for one or two squares. When private enterprise made the improvement a toll gate was erected and toll collected, as was done on Kearny street near Post, and on Mission street, and afterward on Folsom street.

When the land overflowed by the tide, and lying between Montgomery and East streets, the line of low water mark, was surveyed and laid off in streets and lots, the streets were extended from time to time, often on piles driven into the bay and then planked over, and wharves were extended in the same manner from them. Many houses were built there on the same foundation. These lots and streets were not all filled up and stone substituted for the street planking for many years afterward. It was not until the seawall was finally built that the ebb and flow of the tide was shut off from them. The only cobblestones obtainable at the time had to be brought from the Sacramento River.

About 1859 David Hewes with his so-called steam paddy and sand cars on a temporary movable railroad track removed the sand hills on and immediately north of Market street and filled up the swamps or marsh south of Market street, making a very marked change in that part of the city.

The following is believed to be correct descriptions regarding the persons after whom the streets named:

BAKER STREET After E.D. Baker, who was a colonel in the Mexican War. He was from Illinois, from which State he had been Congressman. He practiced law in this city for many years and was afterward elected United States Senator from Oregon. An eloquent man, he delivered the Broderick funeral oration. He was killed at Balls Bluff during the Civil War, while holding a commission as major general in the army, although at the time he was a United States Senator, the Senate having adjourned for the session. He is buried in Laurel Hill Cemetery.

BARTLETT STREET After Washington Bartlett, president of the San Francisco Homestead Union, and who was several times elected County Clerk, was also Mayor of the city and afterward Governor of the State. He died while holding the later office. He was a native of Georgia.

BATTERY STREET The Federal Government once made a reservation at North Point and established a battery there, which fact gave the name to this street. The reservation was subsequently abandoned.

BEALE STREET Edward F. Beale, a lieutenant in the USN. He lived many years in the southern part of the State. Was one time US Surveyor Gen for Calif. Was afterward US Minister to Austria, or some other European court.

BLUXOME STREET -After Isaac G. Bluxome, a well known and popular business man of early times.

BRANNAN STREET Was named after Samuel Brannan, a native of Maine, who came to San Francisco in 1846. By trade he was a printer, and on January 9, 1847, he issued the first number of the California Star, the first newspaper ever published in San Francisco. He was a very active, enterprising and influential citizen, a large, real estate owner, and at one time considered to be a very wealthy man. One of several of the first fine buildings erected in the city was one erected by him and recently torn down to make place for Alvinza Hayward’s new building at the corner of Calif and Montgomery streets.

BRENHAM PLACE After Charles J. Brenham of the pioneer firm of Sanders & Brenham. He was elected Mayor of the city Nov 2, 1852.

BRODERICK STREET After David C. Broderick, a native of Washington, D.C. Once State Senator, and afterward United States Senator. While holding the latter office a duel between him and David S. Terry, at that time Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the State, took place, and resulted in the death of Broderick. At some time for a short period he controlled the politics of the State, securing his own election to the United States Senate, and dictating the election of his colleague.

BRYANT STREET After Edwin Bryant, a pioneer of 1846. He came across the plains from Independence, MO, and joined Fremont's volunteers. He was the successor of Washington A. Bartlett as Alcade, by appointment, Feb 22, 1847.

BUSH STREET Possibly after Dr. Bush, a well-known physician of early times.

CAPP STREET C.S. Capp, the real estate agent, one time Deputy County Clerk. He was secy of the SFO Homestead Union, the first homestead assoc formed in this city. The street runs through the lands of the assoc. He is a native of Phila and a pioneer of 1849.

CASTRO STREET After Jose Castro, once a prefect of this district.

CLAY STREET Was named after Henry Clay, the distinguished Whig statesman and United States Senator from Kentucky.

DUPONT STREET After Commodore Samuel F. DuPont of the United States navy.

EDDY STREET After William M. Eddy who was elected City Surveyor by the Ayuntamiento, or Town Council, in 1850. He completed the survey of the city between Larkin and Ninth streets and the bay.

ELLIS STREET After A.J. Ellis, a prominent business man for many years. He was a member of the Ayuntamiento, or Town Council, of 1849-50, and a member of the convention that framed the State constitution in September, 1849, and once a member of the State Legislature.

FOLSOM STREET After Joseph L. Folsom, in the quarter-master's dept of the US army in 1848-49. He built a fine residence on the NW corner of Second and Folsom streets. He died in the early fifties, leaving a large estate, of which Gen H.W. Halleck, A.C. Peachy and P.W. Van Winkle were executors. The town of Folsom was named after him.

FREMONT STREET After Colonel John C. Fremont, an officer of the US Topographical Engineers and pathfinder across the plains to Calif in 1844-45-46. He co-operated with the Bear Flag party at Sonoma June 14, 1846. He was the first US Senator from Calif; a son-in-law of Thomas H. Benton, the statesman and Senator from Missouri. He was the first candidate of the Republican party for President of the US. He claimed Calif at that time as his home. He is the only candidate Calif has ever had for the Presidency nominated by either of the leading political parties. He was a army general during the Civil War.

GEARY STREET After John W. Geary, a native of Penn, a graduate of Jefferson College. By profession he was a civil engineer. He commanded a regiment at Chapultepec, where he was wounded, and was in command of the citadel of Mexico after its capture. He came to SFO after the Mexican war. In 1849 he was Postmaster, then Alcade, and in 1850 was selected the first Mayor of the city. He was afterward Governor of the Territory of Kansas, a brig general in the Civil War and twice elected Governor of the Penn between 1867 and 1873. He commanded a division at Chancellorsville, Gettysburg and Lookout Mt and in Sherman's campaign through GA in 1864. He and H.H.Haight, afterward Governor of this State, were together with the latter's father, Fletcher M. Haight, afterward US Dist Judge for the southern district of Calif, in partnership in the practice of law for a short time in the early fifties under the name of Haight & Geary. While Haight was Gov of Calif Geary was Gov of PA.

HAIGHT STREET After Henry H. Haight, a native of NY, lawyer by profession and Gov of Calif from 1868 to 1872.

HARRISON STREET Some persons suppose this street was named after General William Henry Harrison, President of the US, but it is altogether more probable that it was named after Henry A. Harrison, who was a member of the Ayuntamiento, or Town Council, in 1849-50, and a member of the pioneer mercantile firm of DeWitt & Harrison.

HAYES STREET Thomas Hayes, who was County Clerk from 1853 to 1856, when the fees went to the Clerk and the office was supposed to be worth $25,000 or more per annum. Under the Van Ness ordinance he became the owner of a large tract of land known as Hayes Valley, through which this street ran.

HOWARD After W.D.M. Howard, a very prominent, wealthy, and influential business man of early times. He was a member of the Ayuntamiento, elected Dec 27, 1848. He died many years ago. George Howard, a prominent real estate man and one time member of the Legislature from San Mateo County, was a brother. The Howard Presbyterian Church was named after W.D.M. Howard, he having advanced most if not all the funds for building the first church edifice for that congregation. His firm, Mellus & Howard, September 1848, erected the first brick bldg in SFO. It was located at the corner of Montgomery and Clay streets.

HYDE STREET After George Hyde, one of the Alcades under the US Govt. Many early grants of lots to settlers were made by him. He returned in after years to Philadelphia, his native city, occasionally, however, paying a visit to this city. He was Alcade in 1847-48.

JEFFERSON STREET This street, running from Black Point to the Presidio and near the bay, is the only one named after the author of the Declaration of Independence and the third President of the United States.

JONES STREET Doctor Elbert P. Jones was editor of the California Star, the pioneer newspaper of SFO, issued Jan 7, 1847 [sic]. He was a member of the Town Council in 1847. It is believed this street was named after him.

KEARNY STREET Originally known as La Calle de la Fundacion, or the foundation street, was named after Gen Stephen W. Kearny, a native of NJ, and a veteran of the war of 1812. He had been colonel of the First US Dragoons and during the Mexican war was ordered to march with his troops and Doniphan's Missouri regiment across the plains from Missouri, and conquer and take possession of New Mexico, and then proceed to California and conquer or take possession of it. Having taken possession of NM he reached California Dec 2, 1846, acting under direct orders from Secy of War William L. Marcy. He afterward fought the battles of San Pasquale, San Bernardino, San Gabriel and the Mesa, near Los Angeles. He was the son-in-law of Clark of Lewis and Clark, who first crossed the continent to the Pacific in the famous Oregon exploration. When he reached Calif, Commodore Stockton, who had arrived in Monterey Aug 15, 1846, and had then succeeded Commodore Sloat in command, was at San Diego, and claimed to be in supreme command of all the military and naval forces of the US in Calif. He had been acting in conjunction with Colonel John C. Fremont and designed to make him military governor. Kearny, however, repudiated Stockton's claim and was sustained by Washington. Stockton then turned his command over to Commodore Shubrick and went east across the plains. Kearny then became the first military governor of Calif under US authority. Not a great while afterward he returned east through New Mexico, taking with him Colonel John C. Fremont, whom he had placed under arrest for insubordination.

Some persons suppose this street was named after Phil Kearney, who was a major during the Mexican war and was for a while stationed at Sonoma. He was a general in the civil war. This fact often leads to the misspelling of the name. Governor and General Kearny spelled his name with one e, while Phil Kearney spelled his with two. The proper spelling is Kearny. This street was once widened twenty feet from Market street to Broadway.

LARKIN STREET This street was named after Thomas O. Larkin, who came to California in 1836 and was the United States Consul at Monterey when the United States took possession. He was a member of the Ayuntamiento, or Town Council, of this city, being elected thereto December 27, 1848. He was also a member of the convention that framed the first constitution of the State in September, 1849. He was one of the founders of the town of Benicia. He lived many years with his family on Stockton street, near Pacific, in one of a row of three houses built there.

LEAVENWORTH After Dr. T. M. Leavenworth, elected Alcade Aug 29, 1849. Peace with Mexico was declared about eighteen days previously, Aug 11, 1848 [sic]. At this time there were three bodies each claiming to be the only legal Ayuntamiento, or Town Council. In the contest Leavenworth made friends and many enemies. Many lots were granted by him to the early settlers. He removed to and lived many years in Sonoma County.

LEIDESDORFF STREET After William A. Leidesdorff, a well-known business man of very early days; a pioneer of 1840. He was town treasurer and member of the Town Council in 1847. He died in 1848, leaving a large estate.

MARKET STREET Supposed to be so-called after Market street in either Philadelphia or Baltimore, or both, though about the time this one was named the latter was changed to Baltimore street. This street took its present direction because it was laid out parallel to Mission street. Sand hills fifty or more feet high stood on it from Kearny street west up until about 1859 or 1860.

MASON STREET After General Richard B. Mason, one time colonel of the First United States Dragoons. He commanded the United States troops in California during a portion of the Mexican War. May 3, 1847, he became the fourth Military Governor of California, while General H.W. Halleck, then a captain, became Secretary of State under him.

McALLISTER STREET After the McAllister family, of which Hall McAllister, the distinguished lawyer, was a member. His father, M. Hall McAllister, was the first US Circuit Judge of this city, and his brother, Cutler McAllister, the first clerk of the US Circuit Court and afterward a partner of Hall in practicing law. Another brother was F. Marion McAllister, an Episcopal minister, who had a church about forty yrs ago S of Market street, near Third. Another brother, Julian McAllister, was a major in the US Army, and during the Civil War was stationed at Benicia Barracks. Ward McAllister, another brother, left SFO and became well known in NYC.

MERCHANT STREET After an early time business man of that name.

MISSION STREET was originally the only road out to the Mission Dolores and to Santa Clara and San Jose. It went partly through a swamp, considered to be unpassable for vehicles. Charles L. Wilson and his associates obtained the right to build a tollroad to the Mission. They leveled or graded Kearny street to Market, made a road along Third street to Market, made a road along Third street to Mission, then out Mission street to Sixteenth. Where necessary they filled up the swamp or marsh and planked the street. The tollgate was place at Kearny and Post streets, but was shortly afterward removed to Mission street. The street was finally macadamized. To prevent opposition they also improved Folsom street and placed a tollgate on it. These tollgates remained for many years, until cross streets, opened from time to time, enabled people to avoid the tollgates, notwithstanding they were from time to time moved to prevent such being done.

MONTGOMERY STREET was named after Commander John B. Montgomery of the US sloop of war Portsmouth, and whose marines and sailors took possession of Yerba Buena, July 9, 1846, and raised the flag on the plaza, which was afterward known as Portsmouth Square.

O'FARRELL STREET After Jasper O'Farrell, a civil engineer, who made the first survey of the city under US authority, and mapped the streets and laid out the plan of the fifty and most of the hundred vara lots.

POST STREET After Gabriel B. Post, a very prominent and influential merchant in the fifties and later. He was elected a member of the Ayuntamiento, or Town Council, Aug 1, 1849. In his time he was one of the leaders in public movements.

POWELL STREETSaid to be named after Doctor Powell of the US sloop of war Warren, Captain Hull.

SANSOME STREET After a merchant who seems to have been more of a business man of Boston or NY than SFO.

SANCHEZ STREET Francisco Sanchez, an Alcade in 1843.

SCOTT General Winfield Scott, commander in chief of the United States army during the Mexican War and the last candidate of the Whig party for President of the US.

SHOTWELL STREET -After J.M. Shotwell, once cashier of Alsop & Co.’s Bank and secretary of the Merchant's Exchange. He was treasurer of the SFO Homestead Union.

SHRADER STREET After A.J. Shrader, a Svsr from 1865-1873.

SPEAR STREET Nathan Spear, who moved from Monterey to San Francisco as a merchant about 1841.

STANYAN After Charles H. Stanyan, a Svsr from 1866-1869.

STEINER STREET Supposed to be after a business man of that name.

STEVENSON STREET Colonel D. Stevenson. His was the first regiment that landed in SFO during the Mexican War. It was recruited in NYC. Many of its members became well known citizens, some still living here. Stevenson practiced law here for many years, was one time Shipping Commissioner and later notary public. He was over 80 years of age when he died. He landed in SFO Mar 6, 1847.

STEUART STREET Colonel William Spruce Steuart, a member of the Ayuntamiento for a short time in 1849.

STOCKTON STREET After Commodore Richard F. Stockton of the US navy. The US flag was raised at Monterey July 7, 1846. Stockton arrived at Monterey Aug 15, 1846, and assumed command, as successor of Commodore Sloat, of all the US forces on shore as well as at sea. On the 22d of Aug, 1846, he issued a proclamation as military commander and Governor, declaring Cal to be a part of the US, and ordering an election for Alcades and municipal officers where such existed, to take place Sep 15, 1846. As naval officer he was succeeded by Commodore Shubrick and on land by General Stephen W. Kearny. He was a native of NJ.

SUTTER STREET After Gen John A. Sutter, a pioneer settler of 1839 in the Sacramento Valley, where he built a fort. He gave relief and welcomed the immigrants across the plains with open handed hospitality. He rescued the Donner party in 1847. It was while engaged in digging a millrace for him that James W. Marshall discovered the first gold in 1848. Sutter County was also named after him. He was a member of the State convention that framed the first State constitution in 1849. He died in the town of Liditz, Lancaster County, PA, having lost his wealth.

TOWNSEND STREET After Dr. John Townsend, who was elected a member and president of the Ayuntamiento, Dec 27, 1848.

VALLEJO After Mariano G. Vallejo, a distinguished native Californian, born in Sonoma July, 1808. He was one of the founders of Benicia. He was once State Senator. The town of Vallejo was named after him. He was one of the delegates to the convention that framed the first constitution of this State.

VAN NESS AVENUE After James Van Ness, a native of New York. He was Mayor and Recorder (Police Judge) at the time the consolidation act went into operation in 1856. He, as Mayor, approved the Van Ness ordinance, so-called, by which the city surrendered to the actual settlers the lands within the pueblo west of Larkin street.

VER MEHR PLACE After the Rev. Dr. Ver Mehr, a pioneer Episcopal minister.

WEBSTER STREET Was named after Daniel Webster, the great Whig statesman and Senator from Massachusetts.

ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ WASHINGTON, JACKSON, TAYLOR, FILLMORE, PIERCE and BUCHANAN STREETS and GRANT AVENUE were named after Presidents of the United States. ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ

DE HARO STREET After Francisco de Haro, once an Alcade.

GUERRERO STREET After Francisco Guerrero, who was born at the Mission Dolores and was Alcade there in 1840-42.

NOE STREET After Jose de Jesus Noe, an Alcade at the Mission in 1842.

TURK STREET After Frank Turk, a native of NY lawyer, second Alcade, Secretary of Ayuntamiento, Clerk of Councils and later a notary public. A well-known citizen of early times.

TREAT AVENUE After George Treat, an early settler on the Treat tract in that neighborhood.

VALENCIA STREET After a native family living in that neighborhood.

WALLER STREET After R.H. Waller, a lawyer of early times, elected City Recorder (Police Judge) in 1851, and also in 1854. His nephew, George Waller, who was connected with him in business, was for a time a notary.

WEBB STREET After S.P. Webb, Mayor of the city in 1854.

DRUMM STREET Lieutenant Drumm of the army. Supposed to be the same person who was adjutant of this dept during the Civil War, and subsequently adjutant gen of the US army, residing at Washington.

DAVIS STREET W.H. Davis, a pioneer of 1831 and a member of the Ayuntamiento in 1849-50, and who still lives in this city, says this street was named after him.

PAGE STREET After Robert C. Page, a clerk to the Board of Assistant Alderman of Common Councils from 1851 to 1854. He was afterward in the real estate business.

PERALTA AVENUE -After a native family.

FRANKLIN STREET -Supposed by some to be named after Benjamin Franklin, but probably after Selim Franklin, a pioneer merchant, or Dr. E.C. Franklin, a pioneer.

GOUGH STREET After Charles H. Gough, a pioneer and member of the Board of Aldermen of Common Councils in 1855. Horace Hawes, C.H. Gough and Michael Hayes were authorized to lay out the streets in the Western Addition. There were two brothers of the Goughs, Charley and Harry, who were twins. It was not easy to tell one from the other. They were contractors. Another brother, Thomas Gough, was a lawyer and once District Attorney of San Mateo County. At one time he was a partner of Tully R. Wise, under the firm name of Wise & Gough, in the practice of the law. Another brother, Dorsey, was also a lawyer and was a Deputy County Clerk under Thomas Reynolds. They were natives of Maryland. Thomas and Dorsey were graduates of Dickinson College.

GREEN STREET After Talbot H. Green, who was elected a member of the Ayuntamiento, or Town Council, August 1849.

LAGUNA STREET After a lake which once existed near its northern end, about half a mile south of Black Point, and which was known as Washerwomen’s Lagoon, where in early times most of the washing of the people of the city was done by women of various nationalities and Chinamen.

LYON STREET Was named after General Lyon, who, early in the Civil War, fell in Missouri while bravely leading his troops.

CORBETT AVENUE was Corbett road, was named after a pioneer family in that neighborhood. John C. Corbett, a son was Deputy County Clerk under Thomas Hayes in 1855-56, and still lives in that locality.


\7 Frisco's Cable Cars history

Brief history of MUNI. The SFO Municipal Railway (Muni) is the seventh-largest public transit system in the US, as measured by ridership. Muni has approximately 700,000 boardings on an average weekday. Its fleet of about 1,000 vehicles, over half of which are electric, consists of subway-surface light-rail vehicles (Metro streetcars), electric trolley buses, diesel buses, the world-famous cable cars, the only ones in the world still operating, and a unique collection of historic streetcars. The first publicly owned streetcar system in a major city in the U.S., Muni has been taking the people of San Francisco where they want to go since 1912. We invite you to explore our Web site to learn more about the many services provided by the San Francisco Muni!

Transit service in San Francisco started in 1851, and was provided by privately owned companies throughout the 19th century. Based on the public’s dissatisfaction with the management of the city’s transit systems and other public utilities, the city charter of 1900 called for the public ownership of all public utilities in the city.

In 1902, a company called the United Railroads of San Francisco took over operation of most of the city’s transit services. That company’s disregard for the public welfare, corruption of city officials, and callous labor practices angered the voters so much that they approved bond issues for a municipal streetcar line in December 1909. The Municipal Railway (Muni) started service on Geary Street on December 28, 1912.

Although Muni expanded service, the United Railroads remained much larger. That company was renamed the Market Street Railway in 1921 and was acquired by the city in 1944. Included in the acquisition were the company’s two remaining cable car lines. After World War II, most of the combined system's streetcar lines were converted to bus service, with much of the new service provided by electric trolley buses. The last privately owned transit system in the city, the California Street Cable Railroad, which operated three cable car lines, was purchased by the city in 1952. The cable car system was cut back, with the present-day three-line system beginning operations in December 1957.

From 1979 to 1988, major changes for bus routes were implemented, converting a mostly radial system — to and from downtown — into a modified grid system for better service in the city and better regional transit connections. Also, improvements were made to Muni's five remaining streetcar lines (now called Muni Metro) when new streetcars (light-rail vehicles) were acquired and service began in the Market Street Subway in 1980-82. The cable car system underwent a major rehabilitation in 1982-84.

The F Market historic streetcar line began running on Market Street in September 1995. An extension of the F line on The Embarcadero to Fisherman's Wharf began service on March 4, 2000. For the Metro subway, a new turnback was put into service east of the Embarcadero Station in 1998, and an Advanced Train Control System (ATCS) is being installed. Also since 1998, there has been a Metro extension on The Embarcadero and King Street, serving the new Pacific Bell Ballpark at 2nd Street and the Caltrain depot at 4th Street. A further extension of that line will serve the Mission Bay development, as well as provide the connection to the planned light rail line on 3rd Street, in the Bayshore Corridor. A major vehicle acquisition program is under way, including the purchase of new diesel buses, trolley buses, and Metro cars.

Early Cable Car History: The driving force behind the San Francisco cable car system came from a man who witnessed a horrible accident on a typically damp summer day in 1869. Andrew Smith Hallidie saw the toll slippery grades could extract when a horse- drawn streetcar slid backwards under its heavy load. The steep slope with wet cobblestones and a heavily weighted vehicle combined to drag five horses to their deaths. Although such a sight would stun anyone, Hallidie and his partners had the know-how to do something about the problem.

Hallidie had been born in England and moved to the U.S. in 1852. His father filed the first patent in Great Britain for the manufacture of wire- rope. As a young man, Hallidie found uses for this technology in California's Gold Country. He used the wire-rope when designing and building a suspension bridge across Sacramento's American River. He also found another use for the wire-rope when pulling heavy ore cars out of the underground mines on tracks. The technology was in place for pulling cable cars.

The next step bringing Hallidie closer to his fate was moving his wire- rope manufacturing to San Francisco. All that was now needed was seeing the accident for the idea to become full blown-a cable car railway system to deal with San Francisco's fearsome hills.

Cable Car Chronology: 1852 - Andrew Hallidie arrives from Great Britain 1869 - Hallidie witnessed horse-car accident and had inspiration for a cable railway 1873 August 2 - Andrew Hallidie tested the first cable car system near the top of Nob Hill at Clay and Jones Streets 1873 Sept. 1 - Clay Street line starts public service at an estimated cost to build of $85,150 1877 - Sutter Street Railroad converts from animal power to cable with no break in service 1878 April 10 - Californa Street Cable Railroad Company (Cal Cable) goes into service 1880 Feb. - Geary Street, Park and Ocean Railroad began service 1881 - Dunedin, New Zealand starts cable car service. Stays in service until 1957 1882 Jan. - Chicago opens it's own cable car system much to winter wind-chilled pedestrians' pleasure 1882 Jan. - Presidio and Ferries Railroad (Union Street line) opens service 1883 August - Market Street Cable Railway starts its first line 1887 - Washington-Mason powerhouse and caarbarn built 1887-88 - Frank sprague created the first successful electric streetcar system in Richmond, Virginia 1888 March 28 - Powell Street cable car service started by Ferries & Cliff House Railway Company 1889 - Cal Cable experiments with a double-ended car with open sections at the ends 1889 August - Omnibus Railroad & Cable Company started operating 1891 - Cal Cable replaced its two-car trains with double-ended cars 1892 April - First electric streetcars with overhead wires began running in San Francisco 1906 April 18 - San Francisco's Great Earthquake allowing United Railroads (URR) to convert much of the cable system to streetcar service 1912 May - Eight cable car lines remained in service in San Francisco 1929 November - Market Street Railway (formerly URR) ends service on the Pacific Avenue line 1941 April - Castro cable line taken over by buses 1942 February - Sacramento-Clay line taken over by buses 1944 September - The City and County of San Francisco took over the Market Street Railway with its two Powell Street cable lines. Cal Cable last privately held transit system in San Francisco 1946 - Committee release statistics proving cable cars lost less money than Muni buses 1946 November - Committee succeeds in getting a charter amendment to save the Powell Street cables on the ballot 1947 - Mayor Lapham attempts to close down cable car system 1947 March 4 - Friedel Klussman rallied a new group called the Citizen's Committee to Save the Cable Cars 1947 April 3 - The Citizen's Committee to Save the Cable Cars began a petition drive for a charter amendment with the City of San Francisco to save the cable cars 1947 May 1 - The City Attorney ruled against the Utilities Manager James Turner, thereby allowing the citizens of San Francisco to vote on the charter amendment to continue operating the cable car system 1947 Nov. 4 - Measure 10 won by a vote of 166,989 to 51,457 forcing the City of San Francisco to maintain and operate the Powell Street cable car system 1951 July - Cal Cable's three lines were shut down 1952 January - The City purchased and reopened Cal Cable's lines and powerhouse at California and Hyde 1954 Feb. - The Jones Street Shuttle was eliminated 1954 May - The California Street line was shortened to cover only Presidio to Van Ness Avenues. The O'Farrell, Jones & Hyde line stopped running 1954 June - The Cable Car Lady, Friedel Klussmann and her Citizens' Committee were outmaneuvered when they mounted a new campaign to save the cable cars. A "Yes" vote on Proposition E meant abolishing half the cable car system; a "No" meant all 5 lines in the system would be saved. Proposition E narrowly passed setting the stage for today's cable car system 1956 Sept. 2 - Car # 524 made the last trip on the Washington-Jackson line 1957 December - All the current lines were now running after the installation of a new turntable at Hyde and Beach Streets so the single-ended Powell Street cars could turn around and all the cables were linked to the Washington-Mason powerhouse 1964 Oct. 1 - Official ceremony at Hyde and Beach designated San Francisco's cable car system a special "moving" National Historic Landmark 1971 Nov - Vote to protect cable car schedules thanks again to a drive by the Cable Car Lady, Friedel Klussmann and her citizens' group 1973 Aug.2 - Cable Car Centennial celebrated by loading Clay St. Cable Car #8 onto a truck and driving it on the Clay St. hill 1982 to June 1984 - Cable car system rebuilt and historic cable cars refurbished 1984 June 21 - Festivities celebrated the return of full cable car service with a ribbon-cutting ceremony at Union Square followed by a parade up Powell Street led by the U.S. Marine band followed by cable cars

1997 March 4 - Celebration installing a new collage at the car barn commemorating the 50th anniversary of Friedel Klussmann's saving the cable cars replacement by buses 1998 Jan. 15 - First female grip operator, Fannie Mae Barnes, operates a cable car after developing the great upper body strength needed for the grip and brakes

Thanks for stopping at the Rider's Guide! The following information is here to help you have the best experince possible riding San Francisco's cable cars, the city's only moving historic landmarks. Fares: Cable car conductors will accept the following: Cash: Tickets: can be purchased at turnarounds or from the conductor as you board. Adult: $2.00 each way. Youth: $2.00 each way. Senior and Disabled: $2.00 each way ($1.00 9pm-7am).

Passes: Passports: are perfect for visitors to the city, and allow riding on streetcars, buses, and cable cars. One Day: $6.00. Three Days: $10.00. Seven Days: $15.00. FastPasses: allow monthly unlimited riding for cable cars, streetcars, buses, and BART (within SF). Adult: $35.00. Youth: $8.00. Senior and Disabled: $8.00.

Children 4 and under ride free. Check Muni's vendor page for locations where passes are sold. NOTE: Transfers from Muni buses and Metro Lines are not accepted on the cable cars. Fares may be subject to change without notice here.

Schedules: Cable cars run seven days a week with special schedules on weekends. For a complete updated listing of all cable car stops and time tables, visit www.transitinfo.org.

Destinations: Basically, there are three cable car routes in operation, and it helps to know their respective destinations. At Powell and Market streets, there is a cable car turntable which serves as the beginning stop for two lines, the Powell-Mason and Powell- Hyde lines. The Powell-Mason line begins at the Powell/ Market turntable, and the line runs from there up and over Nob Hill and down to Bay Street at Fisherman's Wharf. The Powell-Hyde line also begins at the Powell Market turntable and runs over Nob and Russian hills before ending at Aquatic Park near Ghiradelli Square. Both these lines end near Fisherman's Wharf, but at different areas, and the routes are significantly different. Paying close attention to the signs on the cable cars will help you distinguish where in Fisherman's Wharf you will find yourself.

The signs on Powell street cable cars are color coded. The yellow signs will head towards Bay and Taylor streets, and the red signs will head towards Aquatic Park.

The California Street line runs East-West from the Financial District, through Chinatown, over Nob Hill and stops at Van Ness Avenue. Since all the cars on this line have the same routes, the signs are painted directly on the car.

Hop on board! Riders can board at any cable car turntable (the beginning/end of each route) or anywhere this brown and white stop sign is posted. These signs contain information such as: The name of the cable car route The routes direction: to Downtown, Fisherman's Wharf, etc. The routes final destination: Powell & Market, Bay & Taylor, etc. Hours of operation. A telephone number if you have questions about the routes, times, etc.

If you are boarding from the a cable car stop and not at the end of a line, please use the following etiquette: Please wait on the sidewalk and wave to alert the gripman to stop. Do not board the car while it is moving, wait for it to come to a complete stop. You can enter on either side of the car. You can board a cable car if there is sufficient space. Don't forget that you can "hang on" to the special poles provided on the outside of the car. If you choose to ride this way, pay close attention to the gripman as he will alert you to any potential hazards along the route.

Have fun experiencing San Francisco's historic Cable Cars!


\7 History of BART (1946-1972)

The BART story began in 1946. It began not by governmental fiat, but as a concept gradually evolving at informal gatherings of business and civic leaders on both sides of the San Francisco Bay. Facing a heavy post-war migration to the area and its consequent automobile boom, these people discussed ways of easing the mounting congestion that was clogging the bridges spanning the Bay.

In 1947, a joint Army-Navy review Board concluded that another connecting link between San Francisco and Oakland would be needed in the years ahead to prevent intolerable congestion on the Bay Bridge. The link? An underwater tube devoted exclusively to high-speed electric trains.

Since 1911, visionaries had periodically brought up this Jules Verne concept. But now, pressure for a traffic solution increased with the population. In 1951, the State Legislature created the 26-member San Francisco Bay Area Rapid Transit Commission, comprised of representatives from each of the nine counties which touch the Bay. The Commission's charge was to study the Bay Area's long range transportation needs in the context of environmental problems and then recommend the best solution.

The Commission advised, in its final report in 1957, that any transportation plan must be coordinated with the area's total plan for future development. Since no development plan existed, the Commission prepared one itself. The result of their thoroughness is a master plan which did much to bring about coordinated planning in the Bay Area, and which was adopted a decade later by the Association of Bay Area Governments (ABAG).

BART Concept Is Born The Commission's least-cost solution to traffic tie-ups was to recommend forming a five-county rapid transit district, whose mandate would be to build and operate a high-speed rapid rail network linking major commercial centers with suburban sub-centers. The Commission stated that, "If the Bay Area is to be preserved as a fine place to live and work, a regional rapid transit system is essential to prevent total dependence on automobiles and freeways."

Thus was born the environmental concept underlying BART. Acting on the Commission's recommendations, in 1957, the Legislature formed the SFO Bay Area Rapid Transit District, comprising the five counties of Alameda, Contra Costa, Marin, San Francisco and San Mateo. At this time, the District was granted a taxing power of five cents per $100 of assessed valuation. It also had authority to levy property taxes to support a general obligation bond issue, if approved by District voters.

The State Legislature lowered the requirement for voter approval from 66% to 60%. Between 1957-1962, engineering plans were developed for a system that would usher in a new era in rapid transit. Electric trains would run on grade-separated right-of-ways, reaching max speeds of 75-80 mph, averaging perhaps 45 mph, including stn stops. Advanced transit cars, with sophisticated suspensions, braking and propulsion systems, and luxurious interiors, would be strong competition to "King Car" in the Bay Area. Stations would be pleasant, conveniently located, and striking architectural enhancements to their respective on-line communities.

Hundreds of meetings were held in the Dist communities to encourage local citizen participation in the development of routes and station locations. By midsummer, 1961, the final plan was submitted to the supervisors of the five District counties for approval. San Mateo County Supervisors were cool to the plan. Citing the high costs of a new system-plus adequate existing service from Southern Pacific commuter trains - they voted to withdraw their county from the Dist in Dec 1961.

With the District-wide tax base thus weakened by the withdrawal of San Mateo County, Marin County was forced to withdraw in early 1962 because its marginal tax base could not adequately absorb its share of BART's projected cost. Another important factor in Marin's withdrawal was an engineering controversy over the feasibility of carrying trains across the Golden Gate Bridge.

BART had started with a 16-member governing Board of Directors apportioned on county pop size: four from Alameda and San Francisco Counties, three from Contra Costa and San Mateo, and two from Marin. When the District was reduced to three counties, the Board was reduced to 11 members: four from SFO and Alameda, and three from Contra Costa. Subsequently, in 1965, the District's enabling legislation was changed to apportion the BART Board with four Directors from each county, thus giving Contra Costa its fourth member on a 12-person Board. Two directors from each county, hence forth, were appointed by the County Board of Supervisors. The other two directors were appointed by committees of mayors of each county (with the exception of the City and County of SFO, whose sole mayor made these appointments).

The five-county plan was quickly revised to a three-county plan emphasizing rapid transit between SFO and the East Bay cities and suburbs of Contra Costa and Alameda counties. The new plan, elaborately detailed and presented as the "BART Composite Report," was approved by supervisors of the three counties in July 1962, and placed on the ballot for the following Nov gen election.

The plan reqd approval of 60% of the District's voters. It narrowly passed with a 61.2% vote District- wide, much to the surprise of many political experts who were confi-dent it would fail. Indeed, one influential executive was reported to have said: "If I'd known the damn thing would have passed, I'd never have supported it."

The voters approved a $792 million bond issue to finance a 71.5 mile high-speed transit system, consisting of 33 stations serving 17 communities in the three counties. The proposal also included another needed transit project: rebuilding 3.5 miles of the SFO Municipal Railway. The new line would link muni streetcar lines directly with BART and Market Street stations, and four new Muni stations would be built.

The additional cost of the transbay tube - estimated at $133 million -- was to come from bonds issued by the California Toll Bridge Authority and secured by future Bay Area Bridge revenues. The additional cost of rolling stock, estimated at $71 million, was to be funded primarily from bonds issued against future operating revenues. Thus, the total cost of the system, as of 1962, was projected at $996 million. It would be the largest single public works project ever undertaken in the U.S. by the local citizenry.

After the election, engineers immediately started work on the final system designs, only to be halted by a taxpayer's suit filed against the District a month later. The validity of the bond election, and the legality of the District itself, were challenged. While the court ruled in favor of the District on both counts, six months of litigation cost $12 million in construction delays. This would be the first of many delays from litigation and time-consuming negotiations involving 166 separate agreements reached with on-line cities, counties, and other special districts. The democratic processes of building a new transit system would prove to be major cost factors that, however necessary, were not foreseen.

The Project Begins BART construction officially began on June 19, 1964, with President Lyndon Johnson presiding over the ground-breaking ceremonies for the 4.4-mile Diablo Test Track between Concord and Walnut Creek in Contra Costa County. The test track, completed ten months later, was used to develop and evaluate sophisticated new design concepts for BART's transit car and automatic train control system.

In charge of construction management, overall design of system facilities, equipment and monitoring of BART's major contractors, were the District's Gen Engineering consultants, Parsons-Brinkerhoff-Tudor-Bechtel, or most commonly known as "PB-T-B"; a joint venture enterprise formed to manage all technical, as well as construction aspects of the BART project. PB-T-B was comprised of three well known engineering consultant firms: Parsons-Brinckerhoff-Quade & Douglas, of NY (who had done the original BART transportation plan); Tudor Engineering Company, of SFO; and Bechtel Corp, of San Francisco.

Through this joint venture, the firms supplied (or recruited from the U.S. and abroad) the most impressive array of engineering talent ever assembled for a single public works project. The basis of the joint venture concept was that engineering specialists could be supplied as needed, moving on to other projects when their respective BART assignments were completed. This was considered less costly and more permanent than bldg up a large District staff.

Construction began on the Oakland subway in Jan, 1966. November of that year saw the first of 57 giant steel and concrete sections of the 3.8-mile transbay tube lowered to the bottom of the Bay by a small navy of construction barges and boats. The 3.2-mile bore through the hard rock of the Berkeley Hills was completed in Feb, 1967, after 466 work days, to become the fourth longest vehicular tunnel in the U.S.

The first major equipment contract was awarded in May 1967 for the nation's first fully automatic train control system. Westinghouse Electric Corp's low bid of $26.1 million was $3 million under the next bidder. Four other bidders were General Railway Signal Company, Philco-Ford Company, General Electric Company, and Westinghouse Air Brake Company. Although awarding of the contract to any company other than the low bidder would have been illegal, District officials were destined to face criticism and controversy as a result.

In Jul 1967, work began on the Market Street subway and stations 80-100 feet below heavy downtown traffic. Against the combined pressure of mud and bay water, the work required one of the greatest concentrations of tunneling crews and equipment in construction history. Construction of the giant five-story-high stns beneath Market Street and the tunnels themselves, was done under extremely difficult conditions imposed by the high water table in downtown SFO, plus an incre- dible maze of underground utilities installed over the last 100 yrs. The first tunneling in the western US done entirely under compressed air conditions, the project produced a succession of "firsts" in constructing the subway and stations in a difficult mud and water environment.

Subway excavations were rich with buried ships and other memorabilia, providing a fascinating look back into 19th cen SFO when the land-fill of lower Market Street and the Embarcadero was still open harbor. The huge construction effort reached its peak in 1969 with a contractor force of 5,000 working on the SFO subway and other parts of the system, the weekly payroll was more than $1 million.

The final funnel bore was "holed through" into the west end of the Montgomery St Stn on Jan 27 1971. It marked the completion of tunneling work in the huge, two-level Market Street subway and climaxed six years of tunneling underground. Tunneling under compressed air required a special medical center with equipment specialists for close monitoring of the "sandhog" construction force. Despite the complex problems of sandhogging, the BART project was completed with one of the best safety records in heavy construction.

Engineering History Was Made The contract for the production and delivery of BART's revolutionary electric transit cars was signed with Rohr Industries, Inc., of Chula Vista, California, in July, 1969. The initial contract called for delivery of 250 cars, with the first 10 vehicles to serve as test prototypes.

Meanwhile, a truly great chapter was written in the history of civil engineering with the completion of the transbay tube structure in Aug 1969. Constructed in 57 sections, and reposing on the bay floor as deep as 135 feet beneath the surface, the remarkable $180 million structure took six years of toil and seismic studies to design, and less than three years to contract. Before it was closed to visitors for installation of tracks and electrification, many thousands of adventurous people had walked, jogged, and bicycled through the tube. It received a dozen major engineering awards and rapidly became famous, seeming to capture the imagination of visitors from all over the world. To youngsters, especially, the transbay tube is BART.

Unhappily, the major years of BART construction in the 1960's saw seven% average annual inflation - more than double the rate anticipated by economists and allowed for in the project cost estimates. In this climate, before substantial federal grants were available, BART's financial history was inevitably a troubled one.

While delays and inflation were sapping capital reserves, pressures from public and governmental groups resulted in the relocation of 15 miles of right-of-way and 15 stations, as well as a general upgrading of station plans. Stations were also substantially altered during construction to include elevators and other facilities for the handicapped and elderly at an added cost of $10 million. The cost of the transbay tube rose to $180 million from an original estimate of $133 million.

Prime examples of how public pressures escalated the cost of the system are the Berkeley subway and the Ashby Station. After originally approving a combination aerial and subway line through Berkeley, that city later came to oppose the plan in favor of a subway-only line, which was much more expensive. The new plan necessitated redesign of the Ashby Station from an aerial to a subway facility. Extensive controversy and hearings ensued for the next 2 1/2 years, finally to be resolved by Berkeley residents voting to tax themselves additionally to finance the changes they wanted. Next, a Berkeley City Councilman filed a successful suit to redesign the Ashby Station, yet a second time, asserting the use of skylights in the original plans was not a true subway design.

The Berkeley situation resulted in a 2 1/2 year delay in subway construction, a 17-month delay in starting Ashby Station construction, and additional costs of $18 million. As early as 1966, it became increasingly clear that the District would fall short of funds to complete the system. The only apparent solutions were an infusion of more funds, or a drastic scaling-down of system miles to fit the original budget. Major construction contracts were rewritten and re-advertised in anticipation of the threatened cutbacks.

As the crisis deepened, BART directors refused to compromise the planned 71.5 mile system until every possible alternative could be explored. Finally, in Apr 1969, after three years of debate, the State Legislature granted the District's request for $150 million of authorizing the levying of a half-cent sales tax in the BART counties. The needed funds thus came from the sales of bonds pledged against the sales tax revenues.

The Project is Rescued With funds to complete the system assured, construction contracts were returned to their original scope, the work quickly reached peak level in 1969. But three years of financial uncertainty had taken their toll on work schedules. The shortage of funds had also held up ordering the transit cars. When the first 250 cars were finally ordered from low bidder Rohr Industries, of Chula Vista, CA, the cost was $80 million, $l8 million more than the orig cost estimate for the entire 450-car fleet. (Subsequently, 200 more transit cars were ordered for another $80 million. Delivery of the total 450-car fleet would be completed by Jul 30 75.)

Meanwhile, federal monies had begun flowing into the project at an increasing rate, making possible a wide range of improvements over the original system plan. BART's widely-known "linear park", for example, was constructed under the aerial right-of-way through Albany and El Cerrito to demonstrate how function could combine with aesthetics to enhance community environments. A $7.5 million program for systemwide landscaping and right-of-way beautification was partly funded by several of the largest federal grants ever made for this purpose. Of the $160 million base cost of BART's 450-car fleet, 64% was funded by federal grants.

Included in the construction contract for the lower Market Street subway, awarded in the busy year of 1969, was the basic "box" structure for the Embarcadero Stn. Not in the orig plans, the system's 34th stn was added as a result of increasing development of the lower Market Street area. Station funding was cooperative, with the SFO business community raising money for design, and BART spending $25 million on construction. (Of the latter figure, $16 million was raised by curtailing construction of the MUNI subway at the West Portal station instead of St. Francis Circle as orig planned.)

The $315 million, received to date in federal capital grants, was an important factor in upgrading the system from original plans. Nonetheless, this federal aid is only 20 percent of the total $1.6 billion investment in the system. (If BART were being built today, 80 percent of its capital costs could be federally funded under the U.S. Urban Mass Transportation Assistance Act of 1974.) Thus, changes and improvements increased the valuation of the system considerably from the original estimates...a cost factor that is frequently and incorrectly confused with the true project cost over-runs on specific contracts.

A New Railroad Takes Shape As the project moved into 1970, the wide range of system construction passed its peak, and contracts were being completed with increasing frequency. An amorphous collection of excavations, stacks of lumber and brick, sections of rail, and giant spools of cabling was taken on the outlines of a finished railroad. Long suffering San Francisco businessmen were even beginning to recapture Market Street from the BART construction forces.

As the system neared completion, the construction engineers so long in charge began making way for a wide range of electronic engineers and technicians, computer experts, and other specialists. Their job was to install and prove out the automatic train control system, plus three maintenance shops and train yards at Hayward, Richmond and Concord, a staggering array of communications and wayside equipment.

The first prototype car was delivered in Aug, 1970. By early 1971, the ten test prototype transit cars were being operated on the Fremont line in a round-the-clock program to prove out the new design before it went into full-scale production. Meanwhile, at its San Jose plant, IBM was readying the first group of prototype fare collection machines, which it demonstrated to District Directors in October. Since it received an initial $5 million contract in 1968, IBM had been developing a fully automated system to collect fares on a graduated (per mile) basis, as specified by BART, to provide equity between short and long distance riders.

In Dec, 1971, the District Board adopted the official inter-station fare schedule, ranging from 30 cents min to $1.25 max fare. Also, approved the following month were 75% fare discounts for patrons over 65 or under 13 years of age, with discount tickets to be sold through local bank branches instead of at BART stations.

The 1971-72 period saw the gradual phase-out of major construction work, and the beginning of the transition from a construction-oriented organization to an operating railroad. New areas of emphasis included marketing, personnel training, planning feeder bus service to stations, and across-the-board preparations for revenue service. The District staff, up to 765 by mid-1972, had almost tripled in three years to build up the transport-ation and maintenance force for revenue service.

A study of an extension between Daly City Station and the SFO Intl Airport was concluded, and another study of an extension of shuttle access to the Oakland Intl Airport from the Coliseum Station was continued. Also extension studies for northwest SFO, the Pittsburg-Antioch area, and the Livermore-Pleasanton area.

The first segment of the system to open would be 28 miles between Fremont and MacArthur stations. In mid-1972, the Dist Board set Mo, Sep 11, as the first day of revenue service. The summer of 1972 did not lack for problems. Eliminating design "bugs" from the newly- designed train control equipment was a problem Rohr Industries, Inc. could not deal with. Rohr had suffered a nine-week strike, which, added to previous delays, had put the car builder one year behind in its car delivery schedules.

Another serious problem arose on June 18, when the state imposed a hiring freeze on the District until 1,100 applicants from other local transportation lines were interviewed for BART jobs on a priority basis. The freeze was lifted June 15, but vital hiring and training time for station agents, train operators and maintenance workers had been lost.

BART System Facts The Bay Area Rapid Transit District (BART) is a 95-mile, automated rapid transit system serving over 3 million people in the three BART counties of Alameda, Contra Costa, and San Francisco, as well as northern San Mateo County. Thirty-nine BART stations are located along five lines of double track. Trains travel-ing up to 80 mph connect SFO to Colma and other East Bay communities--north to Richmond, east to Pittsburg/Bay Point, west to Dublin/Pleasanton, and south to Fremont.

BART's basic mission is to provide safe, reliable, economical, and energy-efficient means of transportation. Since opening in Sep 1972, BART has safely carried over one billion and a half passengers more than 18 billion passenger miles. BART stations are fully accessible to disabled persons. BART's current weekday ridership is approx 325,000. On a passenger mile basis, BART's use of energy is three times as efficient as an automobile in its total energy consumption and ten times as efficient during rush hours in the commute direction. (Assumes an aver of 1.5 people per auto vehicle). BART trains operate from 4 a.m. to midnight Monday through Friday, 6 a.m. to midnight on Saturday and 8 a.m. to midnight on Sunday. For additional transit information call 510/465-BART.

Board of Dirs Nine elected members representing nine election districts in the three BART counties of Alameda, Contra Costa, and San Francisco. Mileage 95 total: The A-line, from Fremont to Lake Merritt, is 23.4 miles; the M-line from Colma to Oakland West, 16.6; the R-line from Richmond to MacArthur, 10.3; the C-line from Pittsburg/ Bay Point to Rockridge, 25.3; and the RK-line from Rockridge to Oakland West, 5.1; and 14 miles from Bay Fair to Dublin/Pleasanton. There are approximately 19 miles of track through subways and tunnels, not incl the 3.6-mile Transbay Tube, and the 3.5-mile Berkeley Hills tunnel, 23 miles of aerial track and 44.1 of surface. (Four additional miles of double Track in subway and four underground stations for the S.F. Municipal Railway were constructed by BART as specified by the orig 1962 plan.)

The 39 BART stations comprise 12 surface, 13 aerial and 14 subway stations. Four of these are a combination of BART and MUNI Metro stations in downtown San Francisco. Parking Parking is free of charge at all stations, except Lake Merritt Station ($.25). The total number of parking spaces provided system wide is 42,230.

Stations Features Elevators, ramps, platform edge warning titles for the vision- impaired and specially marked parking stalls permit full access to the system by elderly and handicapped persons. Bicycle and motorcycle racks, plus special bicycle locks for extra security, are available at all stations except those in the downtown areas of Oakland, Berkeley and San Francisco.

Transbay Tube 3.6 miles, twin-section, concrete and steel; 24' h x 48' w buried in an underwater trench ranging from 75 feet to 135 feet deep. High earthquake tolerance. Trains Third rail propulsion power is 1000-volt DC electricity. Propulsion - One 150 hp motor per axle, four motors per car. Features - Aluminum body, carpeting, air conditioning, tinted windows. Car - 70' long without cab B-Car), 75' long with cab (A-Car) 10'6 high, 10'6 wide, headroom 6'9''. Track gauge - 5'6'' wide compared to 4'8'' for standard.

Number of cars - 450 original vehicles built by Rohr. SOFERVAL, a French firm, built 150 new transit vehicles called the C-Cars, have the capability of operating as a lead, middle or trailing car of a train. Also, Morrison-Knudson Corporation is building 80 new C2 cars. Like the C-Car, the new C2 car is designed to be used as a lead or trailing car on a train or as a mid-train car.

Car seating capacity - 72 in both the Rohr-built A- and B-Cars, and 64 in C-Cars and C2-Cars. Speed - 80 mph maximum; 33 mph average, including 20-second station stops. Acceleration and deceleration - 3 mph per second maximum. Automatic Train Control (ATC) - Operations

Control Center (OCC) The Operations Control Center (OCC) is located in a large room underneath the Lake Merritt Administration building and replaced the old "central control room" which made history when the system first opened in 1972, with what was considered the largest monitor display board of its kind in the country. The CC functions as the nerve center of BART's 95-mile system performing supervisory control of train operations and remote control of electrification, ventilation and emergency response systems.

The new display boards use computer imaging and video projection to display the entire system, combining info into two--one for track and train positions and the other for maintenance info and electrification. Because the display is software-driven, it can be updated with virtually no limit to the miles of track or number of stations depicted. The center is architecturally designed to satisfy requirements for American With Disabilities Act (ADA). As an added feature, the center has an observation gallery for the public.

Stations and wayside - Network of control devices and track circuits controlling train speeds, stops and safe spacing. Backup train protection system - Sequential Occupancy Release System (SORS): 52 mini-computers in 26 stations. Automatic Fare Collection (AFC) Station Equipment - IBM change, ticket vending machines, gates and cubic fare equipment are at all stns. Charge-A-Ticket vending machines are located at seventeen BART Stations. These vending machines accept a wide variety of credit and ATM cards or cash.

Entry gate - record time, date, station; returns ticket. Exit gate - computes fares, takes tickets, informs if additional payment is needed or deducts proper amount from multi-ride ticket. Ticket - credit-card size, magnetically encoded or stored with up to $32 in fares. Machines auto deduct trip fares from stored fare value on ticket. Note: Ticket vending machines dispense $20 ticket max.

Basic Fare Min $1.10; max $4.70 (for one-way trips).

Special Fares All discounted tickets are available at participating banks, savings and loans, retailers, social-service agencies, other community-based organizations and the BART Customer Service Office. Discount tickets are not available at BART Stations. Children 4 and under ride free. Children 5 through 12, senior citizen (age 65 and over) and persons with disabilities may purchase a ticket worth $16 for $4.00. For $3.80 anyone can tour the entire system for up to three hours as long as the person enters and exits the same station.

A joint BART/MUNI pass is also available which permits unlimited monthly riding of both systems within San Francisco. Fast passes currently sell for $35 and are available at all MUNI outlets. BART Plus tickets are for commuters who ride to or from BART stations on local bus systems. BART Plus tickets are offered in eight different values ranging from $24 to $57 per half-month. The ticket entitles the BART customer to $15-$50 worth of BART rides plus unlimited rides on AC Transit (not Transbay service), County Connection, Dunbarton (local service only), Martinez Link, SamTrans, Santa Clara Transit, S.F. MUNI and Union City transit.

Weekday Base Train 4 a.m. to midnight Mon thru Fri and 6 a.m. to midnight on Sat and 8 a.m. to midnight on Sun. Closing for individual stations are timed with the schedule for the last train beginning at approx midnight. Trains operate every 15 min between Richmond-Daly City; Richmond-Fremont; Fremont-Daly City; Pittsburg/Bay Point-Colma; and Dublin/Pleasanton-Daly City. Three-route night service operates on a base frequency of 20-min intervals and 10 minutes within SFO. Transbay train intervals between downtown Oakland stns and SFO stns are 3.75 min during commute hours, and every 2 minutes 30 seconds during the peak commute hour, and every 5 min in the mid-day.


\8 Seattle (WA)

Major city of Washington state on a neck of land between Elliott Bay (Puget Sound) and Lake Washington (24-mi stretch of freshwater), seat (1853) of King county and the largest metropolis of the Pacific NW. A port of entry and gateway to the Orient and Alaska, it is surrounded by areas of great natural beauty; to the west, the Olympic Mountains provide protection from heavy winter rains, while the lofty Cascades to the east shield the city from both mid-continental cold and heat. Seattle is the hdqrs of the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, which extends along the western slopes of the Cascades.

The first white settlement was made at Alki Point in 1851. The town, laid out in 1853 and named for an Indian chief who had befriended the early settlers, grew as a sawmill centre. It successfully withstood an Indian attack in 1856 (with the aid of the U.S. sloop Decatur) and survived anti-Chinese riots in the 1880s and a disastrous fire in 1889.

The town's development was slow until the Great Northern Railway arrived in 1893, making it a major rail terminus. With a fine landlocked harbour, Seattle became the main supply depot for the Yukon and Alaskan gold rushes in the 1890s. Its strategic location, close to the "great circle" route to the Orient, and its position as the southern terminus of the Inside Passage to Alaska, helped develop the harbour into one of the world's great seaports, with more than 50 mi of wharves. A grading project was initiated in the early 1900s to remove hills in the downtown area by sluicing methods, using the fill for harbour development.

Between 1905-1910, ten surrounding cities and towns were annexed, and Seattle's population grew to 237,194. The opening of the Panama Canal (1914), completion (1916) of the Lake Washington Ship Canal (linking the outer harbour [Elliott Bay] with the inner harbour [Lake Washington]), and development of the city's Smith Cove piers and Duwamish Waterway heralded a new period of commercial growth. WW II brought a great boom, with shipyards and the aircraft industry playing important roles.

Within Seattle's present diversified economic complex are manufacturing (with heavy emphasis on aerospace indus-tries, machinery, and forest products), food processing, banking, insurance, and transportation. Biomedical, ocean science, and electronics-based industries are important as well. Seattle is the headquarters for the Boeing Company and is also the site of Fort Lawton (established in 1897) and Sand Point Naval Air Base. It is also the home port for a large fishing fleet and the Puget Sound and Olympic Peninsula ferries.

Seattle Center (the 74-acre [30-hectare] site of the 1962 World's Fair) contains the 607-foot high Space Needle, the Opera House, and other public buildings. Parks include Woodland Park and Zoo, Pioneer Square, Volunteer Park (with a memorial to the 1867 Alaska Purchase), and Alki Point. The Seattle Art Museum reflects the city's Oriental and Indian influences. Lake Washington, forming the city's eastern boundary, is a course for motorboat (Gold Cup), crew, and yacht races. Seattle is the seat of the Univ of Washington (1861), which is housed in the former bldgs of the 1909 Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition. The city also has Seattle Univ (1891), Seattle Pacific University (1891), Cornish College of the Arts (1914), and four community colleges.

SEA, WA - Seattle A former U.S. immigration station, Hostelling Intl - SEA still welcomes visitors from around the world. The Seattle Art Museum and Pike Place Market, full of farmers' stalls, eateries and shops, are both only a block away. Walk down to the waterfront, take a scenic ride on a Washington State Ferry, or stroll into Myrtle Edwards Park for a panoramic view of the Olympic Mountains across Puget Sound. The Space Needle, Pioneer Square, and the Pacific Science Center are only a short walk away.

Price: $16-$18 + tax Access hours: 24 hours Beds: 199 Private rooms: 4 Facilities: kitchen, meeting room, storage, lockers, laundry, internet Res essential: Jun-Aug; accepted by Mail/Phone/Fax/Email/IBN Intl Bkng Net with credit card Credit cards: AmeEx, JCB, MstrCd, Visa Mgrs: Louise Kipping, Bob Howell Adrs: 84 Union Street, Seattle, WA 98101. 206-622-5443 Email: reserve@hiseattle.org Web: http://www.hiseattle.org

Dir: downtown at Union St. and Western Ave. Airport: take bus #194 or #174 marked "Downtown Seattle." If bus runs in tunnel, get off at University Station, and walk to Union Street, turn left and walk to 1st Ave. (If bus runs on 3rd or 4th Ave., get off at Union St.) Walk to 1st Ave. and look for steps at far corner of 1st Ave. and Union St.; hostel is at the bottom of steps.

Seattle Univ, a private, coeducational institution of higher education in Seattle, Wash., U.S. It is affiliated with the Jesuit order of the Roman Catholic church. It offers about 50 undergraduate degree programs and about 20 graduate degree programs; professional degrees are also available. Seattle University comprises 10 academic units: the College of Arts and Sciences, Albers School of Business and Economics, the Graduate School, Matteo Ricci College, the Institute for Theological Studies, the Institute of Public Service, and schools of Education, Law, Nursing, and Science and Engineering. There are opportunities to study abroad in Grenoble, France; Graz, Austria; Taejon, S.Kor.; Tokyo; and Caracas, Venez. Seattle University is one of the largest independent universities in the Northwest, with an approximate enrollment of 4,800 students. Seattle University was founded in 1891 as the Immaculate Conception parish school for boys; it opened in 1894 and high school level instruction began in 1895. In 1898 the school became Seattle College; bachelor of arts degrees were first awarded in 1909. Because of World War I, instruction was suspended from 1918 until 1922. Women first matriculated in 1933 and first graduated in 1936. The school was elevated to university status in 1948. A professional degree program was established in the mid-1930s, and a doctorate program was added in 1976. Seattle University is a pioneer in creating academic programs, including addiction studies programs (1973), graduate programs in software engineering (1979), and undergraduate programs in environmental engineering (1990).

-------------------------- INTRODUCTION Beautifully situated on Puget Sound, Seattle has a reputation for being outdoorsy...and wet. The rain (or mist or drizzle, depending on the day) produces lush vegetation that gives the place its nickname—the Emerald City. Besides grass, flowers and evergreens, major industry also flourishes in this region. Aerospace and high-tech have spawned such corporate giants as Boeing and Microsoft, turning Seattle into one of the business capitals of the Pacific Rim. The city's indoor scene rivals the one outdoors: With all those inveterate coffee drinkers driven inside for stimulation, the city's residents have created a passel of fine restaurants and a vigorous art scene, which can be enjoyed sans duck boots.

GEOGRAPHY

Seattle sits not on the Pacific itself, but on Puget Sound, the waterway that connects with the ocean and separates the mainland side of Washington State from the Olympic Peninsula. In addition to the waters of the sound, there are several inland lakes that shape the city. Lake Washington is the largest, forming much of the city's eastern boundary and dividing Seattle from its eastern neighbors, Kirkland, Bellevue and Redmond. A smaller body of water, Lake Union, lies to the northeast of the downtown area. If water is the city's most becoming trait, mountains are a close second. Mt. Rainier rises to the southeast; the Olympic Mountains are visible to the west, across the sound; and the deep forests of the Cascade Mountains are to the east.

NIGHTLIFE The heyday of grunge, Seattle's best-known musical export, has come and gone, but the city's active music scene still supports an array of small concert venues and dance clubs. The Ballard area (northwest of downtown) is a hot spot. It's home to tractor tavern, where rootsy bands pack the house. Pioneer Square is another busy place for live music, especially on weekends. Among the clubs there is Fenix/Fenix Underground, which offers a choice of live performers under one roof.

Those looking for a relaxing place to enjoy a drink will be glad to know that Seattleites love to dawdle over designer beer almost as much as designer coffee: Brew pubs are everywhere, offering an endless variety of tasty microbrews.

BARS, TAVERNS AND PUBS F. X. McRory's—This sports bar not far from Safeco Field has much dark wood, decent steaks and a good beer selection (32 microbeers on tap). Full bar and cigars. Open nightly. 419 Occidental Ave. S. Phone 206-623-4800.

Fireside Room in the Sorrento Hotel, the Fireside Room is quiet and opulent. Guests sit in posh, overstuffed chairs and listen to jazz piano (Th-Sa). Open nightly. 900 E. Madison. Phone 206-622-6400.

Gordon Biersch in the Pacific Place mall, this bar is large and noisy like a German-style beer garden, with the beers to match—lagers, Marzen or Pilsner, light Dunkles and seasonal lagers, such as Hefeweizen in summer, medium-bodied Maibock in spring. Hungry? Try the pizza with artichokes or caramelized onions. Waiting time may run 30-40 min, but res are accepted. Open nightly. 600 Pine St., on the uppermost level. Phone 206-405-4205.

Kell's—An Irish bar on Post Alley near the Pike Place Market, Kell's has good ales and a cozy atmosphere. Full bar with sturdy food and lots of meat. Open nightly. 1916 Post Alley. Phone 206-728-1916.

Metropolitan Grill—This is the business bar in town (and a great steak house), complete with Dow Jones ticker. Full bar. Open nightly. 818 2nd Ave. Phone 206-624-3287.

Palomino This glitzy upscale place is near the Sheraton. Full bar. Closed Su. 1420 5th Ave. Phone 206-623-1300.

Pike Pub and Brewery—They serve 40 microbrews, including their own golden ale. Live music from rock to jazz. Open nightly. 1415 1st Ave. Phone 206-622-6044.

Rock Bottom Restaurant and Brewery—Specialty ales from pale to raccoon red and stout are poured. Live music (R&B and swing) Thursday and Saturday. Burgers, pizza and alder-smoked fish and chips. Open nightly. 1333 5th Ave., 3rd Floor, Rainier Square. Phone 206-623-3070.

Salty's on Alki—Catch their terrific view of the Seattle skyline at night. Full bar with a cafe menu. Jazz on Monday. Open nightly. 1936 Harbor Ave. S.W. (in West Seattle, a 25-minute taxi ride). Phone 206-937-1600.

COMEDY CLUBS Underground at Swannie's—Adult comedy seven nights a week. Sunday-Thursday shows at 8 pm, Friday and Saturday shows at 8 and 10 pm. Full bar and restaurant. US$4-$12. 222 S. Main (in Pioneer Sq). 206-628-0303.

Giggles Comedy Club—Because the club is near the University of Washington, shows cater to a younger audience. Wednesday-Friday at 8 pm, Saturday and Sunday at 8 and 10 pm. Patrons must be at least 21 for the later show. Bar and full menu. US$3-$10. 5220 Roosevelt Way N.E. Phone 206-526-5347.

LIVE MUSIC Crocodile Cafe—This alternative-rock hot spot hosts local and nationally known bands. The bar and the concert room accommodate 300. Days and times vary, but bands generally begin at 9:30 pm. US$5-$15. 2200 2nd Ave. 206-441-5611.

Dimitriou's Jazz Alley—One of the best jazz nightclubs in the country, Dimitriou's often draws such top stars as Tito Puente and Branford Marsalis. Two sets nightly (8:30 and 10:30 pm, later on weekends). Closed Mo. US$14-$21. 2033 6th Ave. (next to the Westin). 206-441-9729.

Fenix/Fenix Underground This complex contains five bars and a cafe, two clubs and two stages, thus appealing to a wide variety of music fans. Billiards, cigars and video games, too. Music starts at 10 pm. Closed Mo. US$8-$15. 315 2nd Ave. (at Jackson) in Pioneer Sq. 206-467-1111.

Pioneer Square District—The clubs in the Pioneer Square area often collaborate on a joint admission policy: You can visit about 10 of them for one cover charge (US$5-$10). All offer live music Fr and Sa nights. If you don't like one band, head next door. The clubs include Bohemians (reggae and blues), Colourbox (alternative rock, acoustic), Doc Maynard's (reggae and rock), Larry's Greenfront Cafe (blues), The New Orleans (ragtime, zydeco), Old Timer's Cafe (jazz), Zasu (Top 40) and Central (reggae, acid jazz).

tractor tavern—Bands play a variety of music: alternative country, hillbilly jazz, blues-based rock, Celto-Stompg-rassers and cult folk. Open nightly, with bands usually starting around 9 pm. US$6-$16. 5213 Ballard Ave. N.W., Ballard. Phone 206-789-3599.

Seattle: waking up with the Emerald City The jolt of nature is never far away in a place where fish fly and eagles soar

By Robert Cross Tribune Staff Writer March 12, 2000 SEATTLE -- Funny thing about names.

In Pike Place Market, the central tourist-attracting jewel in the emerald crown of the Emerald City, one part of the complex is named the Sanitary Market Building, constructed in 1910 and called "sanitary" because workhorses weren't allowed inside.

As I read the historic marker that laid out this information, I suddenly came down with a case of free association.

Horses. Seattle Slew. Great thoroughbred. Triple Crown winner in 1977.

How did this city of hills and mountains, bays and inlets, lakes and Puget Sound come to be associated with turf and pari-mutuel windows?

A little research revealed that the horse belonged to a Washington State lumberman named Mickey Taylor. He hailed from Yakima, but if you have big ambitions for a big racehorse, you don't name him after a middle-sized town in an obscure valley between the Saddle Mountains and Horse Heaven Hills (appropriate as that may seem).

No, you name him after the Queen City -- another nickname -- of the Evergreen State.

How many people link Seattle with a famous racehorse? How many, for that matter, realize Seattle was named for Chief Sealth of the Duwamish and Suquamish tribes? In 1855, he signed a treaty that ceded most of what is now the northwestern corner of the state to the U.S. government. His friendship with the settlers inspired them to rename their village Seattle (easier to say than Sealth). Originally, they had called the town Duwamps. Those settlers -- having saved future racetrack announcers from having to pronounce Duwamps Slew -- gradually squeezed out the natives, and the government neglected to pay the full $150,000 purchase price. But the newcomers kept the name.

"Our city is actually the largest American city ever named after a Native American individual -- not an Indian word or a tribe but a person," Gael Zane pointed out one morning. Zane stood next to a large bronze bust of Chief Sealth in Pioneer Square -- site of Seattle's first downtown -- at the start of a guided tour called Underground Seattle.

Zane recited the sad tale of the Duwamish and Suquamish. And after that, she pointed out a large sign behind the Sealth bust, an art construction covered with tribal writings too sacred for translation. "A good name for the piece would be 'Thanks a lot, whitey,'" Zane remarked.

She led her 20 tourists across the street to the foot of a hill on which developers had built an ugly parking garage. That garage replaced the picturesque old Hotel Seattle, but at least construction of the ugly concrete parking structure awakened the citizenry. A protectionist movement worked to preserve the rest of Pioneer Square's collection of 19th Century Victorian buildings.

At one point during recent development fervor, newspaper columnist Emmett Watson wrote, "Progress will be the death of Seattle yet." Fortunately, the people took heed.

Long before garage or hotel, the hill served as a convenient mudslide that lumberjacks employed to transport logs down to the waterfront.

"So they called this hill Skid Road," Zane said. "That already was a very common logging term for years in mill towns," Zane said. "But it was in Seattle that a journalist first applied it -- changed to Skid Row -- to an undesirable part of an urban area. And we're very proud to say that Skid Row started here, not in New York."

Names again. Seattle has contributed so much to the American lexicon.

But over the years, it was a boom and bust sort of place with a geological makeup that defied those settlers who would make it a city. Mud slides, a fire and tidal inundation kept wrecking things. Then came the Gold Rush, and local merchants cleaned up by selling supplies to the prospectors passing through.

After the fire of 1889, townspeople began to rebuild with masonry. Then they discovered the perpetual mud made streets impassible. So they moved entrances to the second story and built sidewalks and streets above the slop.

The Underground Tour explores those original storefronts, hotels and saloons, now gathering dust beneath creaky floorboards. There isn't much left to see -- a series of basements, exposed beams, an occasional wall with windows staring at another wall.

Zane freely acknowledged the rather unpleasant potential of an underground tour. She told customers who were wearing open-toed shoes: "We call those rat hors d'oeuvre trays." And beneath a sidewalk skylight of glass blocks, she urged everyone to scream "Help!" We did, but pedestrians up above ignored our cries and kept on walking.

"Usually, when we do that, nobody pays any attention," Zane admitted. "Oh, sometimes a lawyer will stop and push his card through a crack."

To hear Zane tell it, early Seattle was the scene of one debacle after another -- misperceptions, breaches of faith, unbridled lust, corruption, bungling and stubbornness. For the most part, history books back her up. "The pioneers did bring with them what we call today the true Seattle spirit," she said. "And that means, even if you have a really bad idea, stick with it."

After an hour in the underground dust, I was ready to confront the present, which in Seattle calls for a coffee break.

Pedestrians downtown might not answer a call for help coming from under the sidewalk, because they have a double mocha latte in one hand and a cell phone in the other. One morning, I walked an entire block of 1st Avenue and the only people not juggling a cup of java were the bike messengers.

Starbucks gets the blame for all this. Its first store opened in 1971 on Pike Place in the heart of the Pike Place Market. Since then, of course, it has spread even to New York City, previously partial to the hot and bitter deli kind of brew. That original Starbucks outlet sticks to its humble beginnings with wooden floors and utilitarian lighting. Elsewhere in town, of course, the shops do their post-modern best to out-decorate and out-caffeine some stiff competition, including Seattle's Best and Tulley's.

I chose a sidewalk coffee stand because it purveyed no discernible brand. Convenient, too. The downtown seems to sport at least one coffee vendor per block. I ordered a large, plain black -- a savage jolt that prepared me for The Bear.

All day long, The Bear paces in front of the Pike Place Fish counter in Pike Place Market. He wears orange rubber waders, a white thermal shirt, a baseball cap, glasses and a scowl. People never buy enough to please him. When they do place an order, he grabs the fish in question and yells hoarsely "get flounder!" or it might be "get cod!" or whatever. Young men behind the counter repeat at the top of their lungs, "Flounder!" "Cod!" They field The Bear's toss, wrap it and ring it up.

One afternoon, presidential candidate Bill Bradley showed up with the usual presidential-candidate entourage. As per instructions from Adam Josephson, a campaign advance man, Bradley stepped behind the counter and The Bear grabbed a 3-foot king salmon off the chipped ice and flung it. "Salmon!" Bear yelled. "Salmon!" the boys yelled back. And Bradley, smiling, made the catch.

Almost immediately, The Bear turned away from Bradley's photo op and resumed his perpetual fish-mongering harangue. "So what are we gonna get you today, mister? What are we gonna get you kids? Does anybody want to buy some FISH?" To a man with a cell phone: "Sir, while you're on the phone, find out how much FISH you need to get."

The man laughed and told the caller, "He thinks I'm talking to my wife."

"I don't care who you're talking to, sir. Find out how much FISH they want," urged The Bear. I asked him his name. "I'm The Bear." No, really. He handed me a Pike Place Fish business card. That, too, identified him as "The Bear."

Funny thing about names.

I once watched bears catching salmon in an Alaskan stream. They grabbed them with their claws and sometimes threw the fish about. However, they did it far more quietly.

Back in the '60s, it took a citizens brigade to halt a development that would have replaced the market with condominiums. Its hundreds of shops and yelling shopkeeps give Seattle a core of energy unlike that in any other town.

Pike Place adds to the urban confusion, which is sometimes delightful, sometimes infuriating. Some residents claim that they go to Seattle Center and ride to the top of the Space Needle -- famous relic of the 1962 Worlds Fair -- just so they can enjoy a view that doesn't include the Space Needle. I went up on a clear afternoon and saw a view that included a cityscape backed by massive Mt. Rainier, its white slopes turning pink as they reflected the lowering sun.

Mesmerizing.

Emmie, a cashier at the Space Needle souvenir counter, looked over her shoulder at the mountain and gasped. "Every once in awhile I turn around and -- wow! It always takes me by surprise," she said.

Nature is Seattle's main asset. In periods of atmospheric clarity, there are mountains visible no matter where you look. "You can see them about 80 days out of every year," another Seattle Center employee told me. Yes, it rains a lot in Seattle, which has plenty of days when a hot cup of joe hits the spot. But cloudy, misty periods add to the seafaring atmosphere. Fog horns mix with blasts from the ferry boats; woods and waters are there for the recreating within the city limits, any season of the year, showers or no showers.

Outside the business district, everyone seems to be jogging, or biking, or kayaking, or walking the dog. We hear that a great number of the 500,000-or-so residents would prefer that the rest of us leave them alone with their natural treasures. Yet, at the same time, boosters insist on a ranking in the metropolitan major leagues. They point to their opera house, their art museum, zoo, sports franchises, theaters, universities and public art. Even the World Trade Organization riots conferred a sort of gritty status. A big trade conference would throw a spotlight on the city's achievements in software, aerospace and overseas commerce. A riot demonstrated that Seattle isn't nearly as placid as the rest of the nation might have thought.

"Oh, so many people said we have to have this, we have to have that, we have to be a world-class city, we have to have a football stadium," said Gael Zane, the tour guide. "I mean, who cares?"

Zane prefers the city's laid-back sectors. Fremont, for instance, has fashioned itself as a sort of urban-strife parody. It has a giant, Volkswagen-crushing troll sculpted under the Aurora Bridge, life-size statues that appear to be waiting at a bus stop, a war-surplus rocket atop one storefront to symbolize the community's self-proclaimed standing as "center of the universe." On Capitol Hill, the grunge and free expression in clothes and tattoos that gave the city its moment in the rock 'n' roll spotlight still color the bars and boutiques along Broadway.

Houses in the residential neighborhoods hunker charmingly into the hillsides with big windows angled to capture mountains and Puget Sound. The frequent rains make the lawns and shrubbery a brilliant green, and the streets seem part of a different urban landscape entirely.

I took a ferry to Bainbridge Island, leaving from the hard-working port area. As we got farther into the sound, the skyline beyond the ferry's wake did suggest an Emerald City, a place where promises might be made and sometimes kept.

As the boat left Bainbridge for the half-hour return trip, some of us saw an eagle swoop down and sink its talons into a big fish. The fish pulled the eagle underwater. The eagle struggled, flapped its wings and managed to surface. Then it inched toward shore with the fish still firmly in its claws. The fish pulled the predator under again. The eagle beat at the water and managed to progress toward the beach. Our ferry headed home before we could see the outcome. One thing was clear: This was not the sort of mugging typical of a big metropolis.

At the dock, scores of commuters hurried to board the boat we had just left. They were heading home for dinner, back to the part of town where eagles dine on fresh-caught salmon. A lot of them carried newspapers -- some for reading, a few wrapped around their own fresh fish, possibly purchased from The Bear.


\9 Toronto (Can)

Underground city: Union Sta-Royal York Htl-Eaton Ctr. Pop consists of: Portuguese, Chinese, Italian.

Intl Film Fest 9/04-13. 416-967-7371. Met YYZ Ref Lib. CN Twr. Amtrack has train from CHI & NYC to YYY 12 hrs.

BY WEISSMANN TRAVEL REPORTS Sep 15, 2000 Toronto has left its demure Victorian past behind. Today, the city vibrates as a cosmopolitan financial, commercial and cultural center, blending its multicultural heritage -- some 80 ethnic groups speaking more than 100 languages -- with urban chic. It has a busy stock exchange and a large film and television production center. It has soaring futuristic architecture (along with tiny Victorian and Edwardian gems), museums, galleries, opera, ballet, symphony, professional sports teams, nearly 5,000 restaurants and cafes, fine shopping complexes and a people-friendly waterfront. Hundreds of parks keep it green (most of the year). It now ranks high on the list of world cities for quality of life. Toronto offers all of the amenities of a large city for business or sightseeing (or living), and it offers them in environs that are clean and safe.

First inhabited by the Seneca and later by the Mississauga Indians, Toronto became a thriving trading post after the French arrived in the 1700s. The French built forts there, only to be driven out by the British in 1763. A haven for British loyalists during the American Revolution, Toronto was fought over in the War of 1812, with U.S. forces capturing the city for 11 days. Retaken by the British, the settlement’s population grew rapidly after the war, topping 9,000 in 1834 -- the year Toronto was incorporated as a city. Thereafter, British immigrants arrived by the hundreds. The city's conservative, religious character earned it the nicknamed Toronto the Good" in the 1800s and early 1900s. But a new wave of immigrants after World War II transformed the town into Canada's largest city and a bustling internationally flavored metropolis. The city is popular today with visitors from within and outside Canada -- it's also vying to be the site of the 2008 Olympics. Toronto sits on the north shore of Lake Ontario. It is a city of distinctive neighborhoods, each with bookstores, cafes and markets. Yonge (pronounced young), the longest street in the world, is the main north-south artery, dividing the city into east and west. Bloor Street and Queen Street are two popular east-west thoroughfares intersecting with Yonge in the downtown core. The other streets follow a fairly neat grid pattern. The airport is located in the northwest corner of the city; the zoo in the northeast; the lakeshore runs along its southern edge; and the two major landmarks, the CN Tower and the Skydome, are just west of downtown, not far from the water. People in Toronto refer to the city's neighborhoods by quoting streets or intersections. For example, Yonge and Bloor Street is the city's center, and King and Bay Street is the heart of the financial district. Queen Street W. offers a SoHo flair with a wide assortment of shopping -- great junk, mainstream boutiques, bookstores and funky antiques -- as well as fine bistros. The Beaches (Queen Street, east of Woodbine) conjures up a California feeling, partly because of its 20-block wooden promenade along the shore of Lake Ontario. Yorkville (just north of Bloor, west of Yonge and near the Royal Ontario Museum) has the town's most elegant shopping and an abundance of chic cafes. The Danforth (Bloor Street E.) is the place to look for casual Mediterranean dining, bouzouki music and sightseeing in the Greek part of town. Harbourfront is Toronto's developed waterfront area. Most of these areas are popular with both tourists and locals and are easily reached on foot or via public transportation. TO DO: Sights: CN Tower; Yonge Street and City Hall; Eaton Centre (along with 6 mi/10 km of underground shopping); Queen Street W.; Toronto Islands; the St. Lawrence Market and the Esplanade area; the SkyDome; Toronto Zoo. Museums: The Royal Ontario Museum; the Art Gallery of Ontario; Ontario Science Centre. Memorable Meals: Foie gras at North 44; pasta at Grano; anything Chinese on Spadina Avenue; cozy drinks and spicy treats at Southern Accent. Late Night: Bistros in the trendy Queen Street W. section of town; restaurants along the Danforth; pubs in the Beaches; bars in the Entertainment District north of the SkyDome (along King Street W. and side streets); the cafes and bars of Little Italy. Sports: The Toronto Maple Leafs or the NBA Raptors at the new Air Canada Centre, the twice world-champion Blue Jays at the SkyDome, harness and Thoroughbred horse racing at Woodbine Racetrack. Walks: Along Harbourfront; down Queen Street E. and over to the boardwalk along Lake Ontario; up Queen Street W.; through any of Toronto's three Chinatowns; along the Greek area of the Danforth; through trendy Yorkville; all over Ontario Place; Toronto Islands; through the underground shopping complex..stretching from Union Station to the heart of the city; Mirvish Village off Bloor Street W., especially on Saturday. DAY TRIPS: To Stratford. This lovely little Victorian town is dedicated to theater..and pleasing tourists, with lovely eateries, picnics by the River Avon and antique shopping in town or nearby in Shakespeare or St. Mary's. Canada's preeminent classical repertory theater, the Stratford Festival, is based in Stratford. May-November it produces top-notch, internationally acclaimed performances. The company's focus is Shakespeare, but every season there is a choice of contemporary dramas and big-time musicals as well. About 90 minutes southwest of Toronto by car. For more information, call the Stratford Tourist Information Board, 519-271-5140. To Kleinburg. For an afternoon of art and nature, visit the quaint little town of Kleinburg, where you'll find the McMichael Collection, a private museum nestled in a woodland setting. The museum houses landscapes by the Group of Seven, which included such artists as Emily Carr and A. Y. Jackson, who recorded the dramatic colors of the Canadian wilderness in the 1920s. Significant collection of First Nations and Inuit art as well. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Open Monday May-August. Can$7 adults, Can$5 seniors, Can$4 students, free for children under age 5. 10365 Islington Ave, phone 905-893-1121. Approximately 2 mi/3 km from the McMichael is the Kortright Centre for Conservation. The country's largest conservation center offers guided walks through forest, meadows and wetlands, as well as wildlife and environmental demonstrations. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Can$5 adults, Can$3 seniors and students, Can$2.50 children. Pine Valley Drive, Kleinburg (north of Toronto about 40 minutes by car). Phone 416-661-6600. Kleinburg is not accessible by TTC subway or bus. Connections Trolley operates a service between Toronto and Kleinburg May-August. Phone 416-675-6656. To the Royal Botanical Gardens. Enclosed in the gardens' 2,700 acres/1,094 hectares is a thriving wetland and intricate ecosystem that includes deer, coyote, muskrat and blue heron. The site also boasts the world's largest collection of lilacs, as well as an indoor Mediterranean garden and acres of roses. Open year round. Daily 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Can$6 adults, Can$4 seniors, Can$2 children. An hour's drive from Toronto. 680 Plains Rd., Hamilton. Phone 905-527-1158. To Milton. Chudleigh's is an entertaining family farm featuring hayrides for children and apple picking, skiing, corn roasts and maple syrup in season. Also offering apple cider, baked goods and a small retail store. Free admission. Phone 905-826-1252. Rural Ontario's farm life comes alive at the Ontario Agricultural Museum, with more than 30 buildings of rare artifacts for you to explore. Demonstrations, farm animals, special events and exhibitions, such as the annual quilt show. Call for schedules May-September. Can$4.50 adults, Can$2.25 children ages 6-17. Phone 905-878-8151. Milton, 50 minutes west of the city. To Parkwood. Palatial heritage house and estate featuring sculpture, antiques, greenhouse and formal gardens. Afternoon tea served in Tea House. Hours vary, so call to confirm. Can$6 adults, less for seniors and children. 270 Simcoe St., Oshawa (a short car ride from Toronto on Highway 401). Phone 905-433-4311. To Niagra-on-the-Lake. This pretty 19th-century village hosts the Shaw Festival every year April-October. Several works by George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries are mounted, making this as attractive a destination as Stratford. Along the way, enjoy the region's wineries, historic Fort George, or the Botanical Gardens of the School of Horticulture. For trips to this area, call Niagara Tourist Information, phone 905-356-2241. Executive Coach offers full-day narrated trips to the Niagra Falls, including lunch, a Maid of the Mist boat trip to the falls and a tour of Niagara-on-the-Lake. Departs downtown daily at 9:30 a.m. Can$100 for adults, less for seniors and children. Phone 416-740-3339.

LODGING: A magnet for business travelers, conventioneers and tourists alike, Toronto offers an array of accommodations that ranges from economical to extravagant. Choose one near the city center or on a subway line -- it will make it easier to see the city. Even with a sufficiency of hotel rooms -- more than 32,000 -- travelers are advised to make reservations early, especially in the summer months, when vacationers swell the ranks of those seeking a place to stay.

Below is a sampling of hotels; it is not intended to be a comprehensive list. Expect costs to fall within these general guidelines, based on the standard rate for a single room: $ = Can$90-$175; $$ = Can$175-$250; $$$ = more than Can$250. Be sure to check for varying rates that may be extended to business travelers or for conventions. Weekend packages may be offered as well.

Royal York Hotel -- This huge 1,365-room flagship of the Canadian Pacific Railways & Hotels is so grand it can host a 10,000 person sit-down banquet. Steps away from Union Station, the O'Keefe Centre and St. Lawrence Centre, it has excellent shopping and access to cafes lining Front Street E. and the Esplanade. 40 meeting rooms (largest holds up to 1,800), three large ballrooms, audiovisual services, health club and beautiful indoor pool. Several restaurants, including Benihana's, and the Library Bar for notable martinis. $$-$$$. 100 Front St. W. (corner of York). Phone 416-368-2511. Fax 416-368-2884.

SkyDome Hotel -- Built into the Skydome complex, this hotel offers a variety of ways to view the bull pen and ball field. Approximately 70 rooms, 30 luxury suites, four skybox meeting rooms and a restaurant overlooking the Toronto Blue Jays home stadium. Health club, pool, squash courts and parking, 24-hour room service and home of Toronto's Hard Rock Cafe. Three meeting rooms (largest holds 320), one formal ballroom. Rates start at $; for rooms overlooking the stadium, $$$; for suites overlooking the stadium, $$$ and up. 1 Blue Jays Way. Phone 416-341-7100. Fax 416-341-5091 for guests, 416-341-5090 for business. Sutton Place Hotel -- A luxurious, 280-room hotel and a lovely alternative to the nearby Four Seasons Hotel. A favorite of movie stars because of its Grand European-style service. Its Sanssouci dining room is as famous for its ambience as it is for its fine cuisine. $$-$$$. 955 Bay St. Phone 924-9221. Fax 416-924-1778.

EATING: Originally, Toronto was built around the food habits of mostly Scot and Anglo settlers who were raised on basic meat-and-potatoes fare. More recent immigrants, however, have enlivened the restaurant scene which now reflects a unique multiculturalism -- local, ethnic mom-and-pop diners, cafes and bistros, as well as temples of innovative haute cuisine that quickly mirror the food trends of New York and Los Angeles. Inexpensive Chinese restaurants are plentiful along Spadina Avenue north of Dundas, as well as at the intersection of Gerrard and Broadview. Greek tavernas are generally found along the Danforth (Bloor Street becomes Danforth east of Yonge), and Little Italy is located on College Street west of Bathurst. Clusters of eateries can be found in Yorkville and on Yonge Street near Eglinton. If you're looking for regional Canadian cuisine, a few places specialize in all-Canadian menus, featuring Ontario rack of lamb or Bay of Fundy salmon. Do try wines from the Niagara region as they are rarely available elsewhere. Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, excluding taxes, drinks and tip: $ = less than Can$15; $$ = Can$16-$25; $$$ = Can$26-$70; and $$$$ = more than Can$70. It's a good idea to make reservations and call ahead to see if they're open on holidays.

HOT AND TRENDY: Canoe -- A proud purveyor of Canadian regional cuisine, Canoe is high on the 54th floor of the Toronto Dominion Tower -- affording a fine view of the archipelago of Toronto Islands offshore in Lake Ontario. The superb menu includes such Canadian delicacies as maple-smoked chicken, Quebec foie gras and oatmeal-caramel ice cream. Martinis are the specialty cocktail. No dress code. Monday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. $$$. Most major credit cards. 66 Wellington St. W. Phone 416-364-0054. Pangaea -- This architecturally restrained, modern space is tranquil and refined. Offerings include grilled jumbo quail with portobello mushrooms and honey-lemon vinaigrette, cream-free soups and unique salads. Do try the desserts, one of which is bread-and-butter brioche pudding with berries and mint coulis. Sophisticated dining happens there, yet tired Bloor Street and Yorkville shoppers also find it a good place for afternoon tea and snacks. All ingredients are unprocessed. Monday-Saturday 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Reserve for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1221 Bay St. (at Bloor). Phone 416-920-2323. Rosewater Supper Club -- There-to-be-seen patrons flock to this landmark building with its wood and marble floors, two-story-high ceilings and blue velvet banquettes. Everything is presented with care, whether it's the Asian-spiced chicken with sweet chilies, risotto with leeks or lobster and caviar. There's a tapas menu in the lounge, which has a torch singer, billiards and comfy, luxurious seating. Monday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m., Friday 11:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m., Saturday 5-11:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 19 Toronto St. Phone 416-214-5888. Splendido's -- Near some of the University of Toronto buildings, this is more than just a highly charged, colorful place to be seen. The food is creative and delicious, blending the best of California and Italian cuisine with great service. You can linger over drinks or dessert and coffee long after the chef has gone home. Monday-Friday 5-10 p.m., Saturday until 11 p.m. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 88 Harbord St. (at Spadina). Phone 416-929-7788. Xango -- A bustle of beautiful people dining on authentic delicacies from South America, Cuba and other Latin locales. Intimate, low-lit room with lots of wrought iron and tiles. Best way to start is with three-tiered ceviche appetizers and gorgeous margaritas in unique glass goblets. Move on to Chilean salmon wrapped in a banana leaf, served with mushrooms, capers and corn, alongside saffron rice and orange-scented sofrito. Heavy, delicious desserts. Tapas and tango upstairs in the bar. Thursday-Saturday (only) 5 p.m.-midnight. Reservations required. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 106 John St. Phone 416-593-4407. BEST IN TOWN: Centro -- Salmon pink walls, a bright blue ceiling and excellent food and service make this midtown location a favorite with local foodies. Ambitious kitchen offers a French/Mediterranean menu using top-notch regional ingredients -- pan-charred sea bass, fruitwood-smoked salmon and Delft Blue veal chops. The chef's plat classique changes daily. Downstairs in the piano lounge is a full sushi menu, as well as less expensive pastas and designer pizzas. Wide variety of delectable appetizers and an exceptional, if pricey, wine list. Mo-Sa 5-11 p.m. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 2472

Yonge St. (near Eglinton). Phone 416-483-2211. North 44 -- An opulent, comfortable two-story space with marble floors and exotic-flower arrangements, this is where you'll find the extremely wealthy and those willing to break the bank for a special occasion. Food is excellent and gorgeously presented, and service is immaculate. Offers such innovative cuisine as pepper-sesame seared tuna and toasted pecan-encrusted rack of lamb. The foie gras is exceptional. Great appetizer platters to share and the best creme brulee in town. Wine list encompasses round-the-world choices from Can$40-$700 per bottle. Can be noisy on a busy night. Live background music on weekends. Monday-Saturday, open 5 p.m., kitchen closes at 11 p.m., 11:30 p.m. on weekends. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 2537 Yone St. (near Eglinton). Phone 416-487-4897. Scaramouche -- This venerable establishment has been feeding Toronto's well-heeled for almost 20 years. Chic, two-level space in a hilltop apartment building and one of the more romantic, dressier establishments in the city. Hard to spot from the street (taxi drivers know it, though), but rewarding when you see the panoramic view and eat the pristine international cuisine, such as shrimp spring rolls on top of carrot, green onion and jicama in a tamarind mango glaze. Scaramouche Pasta Bar downstairs is less expensive and has several non-pasta main courses like steak frites and liver and onions. Dining room Monday-Thursday 6-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30-10 p.m.; pasta bar Monday-Thursday 6-11 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 p.m. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 1 Benvenuto Place (Avenue Road near St. Clair). Phone 416-961-8011. Truffles -- This is a very pretty room in the Four Seasons hotel in Yorkville, and the scene of many a soft-spoken power dinner. Provencal-style cuisine with remarkable Asian accents: pan-seared five-spice duck, shiitake mushroom and potato canneloni with lemongrass jus, and oven-baked halibut with tomato and caper sauce. Witty, gorgeous desserts. Service is smooth and deferential, wine list truly comprehensive. Monday-Saturday 6-11 p.m. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Four Seasons Hotel, 21 Avenue Rd. Phone 416-928-7331. LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES: Messis -- Loved by residents of Toronto's Annex neighborhood (near the University of Toronto), this modest restaurant has a warm and friendly atmosphere, especially during summer months on its great patio (the dining room is nondescript). Inventive pastas -- spaghettini with bay scallops, trout, sweet peppers and snow peas -- and very fresh produce. Changing seasonal menu. Open daily for dinner 5 p.m.-midnight, open May-August for lunch. $$. Most major credit cards. 97 Harbord St. (near Spadina). Phone 416-920-2186. Southern Accent -- This place is cozy and fun. Decorated like an old New Orleans house with whimsical curios everywhere, this Cajun favorite has been tucked behind Honest Ed's (Toronto's landmark discount superstore in Mirvish Village) for a dozen years. Try their bourbon sours at the bar, move on to the blackened chicken livers, the shrimp etouffee, or just graze from an assortment of spicy appetizers and side dishes. Friendly staff. Full patio seating in the summer. Open daily: bar 5 p.m.-2 a.m., kitchen 5:30-11 p.m. $$. Most major credit cards. 595 Markham St. Phone 416-536-3211.

ASIAN: Ematei -- Not fancy but loved by Japanese tourists for its authenticity. Ematei has all the traditional dishes of a Tokyo eatery and some of the freshest sushi in town. Sit at the bar or in one of their tatami rooms and enjoy a hot pot (for sharing with others), grilled black cod, delicious handrolls or lunchbox specials. Daily 11:45 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5:30-10:30 p.m. $-$$$. Most major credit cards. 30 St. Patrick St. Phone 416-340-0472.

Lee Garden -- Great food and fast service at this very popular Cantonese institution on the Spadina strip. Bright basic decor, with plastic table coverings that get swept away with dirty dishes. More than 100 MSG-free selections are made to order, including excellent sweet-and-sour soup, garlicky scallops in the shell, fresh fish, exotic seasonal vegetables, good black bean sauce. Daily 11 a.m.-midnight or later. $-$$$. Most major credit cards. 331 Spadina Ave. Phone 416-593-9524.

SEAFOOD: Rodney's Oyster Bar -- If you love oysters in particular, or seafood in general, this is where salaried professionals, eager singles and downtown residents congregate to devour their share of bivalves. Often noisy, the beer- and wine-only bar is always crammed with devotees, as Rodney himself wanders around discussing Malpeques vs. Lewis Islands oysters. Ask about their daily white-plate specials. Monday-Saturday 5 p.m.-midnight. Reservations required. $$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 209 Adelaide St. E. Phone 416-363-8105.

STEAK HOUSES: The Senator -- Across from the Pantages Theatre, you will find this longstanding meat-lovers' haven with a dual personality. One half is a diner with green leather booths, the other is a mahogany-walled, more upscale dining room. For dinner, excellent steaks and chops and a mixed grill of swordfish and tuna. The lunch menu has fish and chips, liver and onions and great burgers. Also open for hearty breakfasts. Upstairs is Top O' the Senator, a classy, late-night jazz club with a changing roster of performers. Diner: Monday-Saturday 7:30 a.m.-8:30 p.m., Sunday till 3 p.m. Steak house: closed on Mondays, lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:45 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-11:30 p.m., Sunday till 10 p.m. $-$$$. Most major credit cards. 249 Victoria St. Phone 416-364-7517.